The Knit List - a fantasy wish list

It's about time I did a Knit List - whittling down hundreds of my patterns to just ten of my must-knits. Ten? Impossible. I'll do fifty. More achievable (though not all in one post, of course!).

I've got so many patterns going round in my head, they are getting tangled up in there. It's not a very tidy, organised place my head. Neither are my patterns for that matter. Which is why I need to get down my wish list of knits - the knitteds that I just HAVE to make - so I can easily reference them in a calm and unemotional way. Not in the usual, frantic, just-seen-a-jumper, scrabble-about-for-enough-wool, don't-bother-with-a-tension-swatch and just-dive-in kind of way, which is how I seem to approach pattern choice.

I'm going to have to do a top fifty, because I just can't whittle it down any further. I will spread it over a good few blog posts. although I probably have nearer to one hundred that I just NEED to knit, but who's got that kind of time? Or wool? (Well, I probably have enough of that).

I will begin with Good Needlework magazine, as it is one of the best magazines from the glory years of the 1930s for knitwear design. Not only were the patterns shown in full colour, (often super bright colours), but the patterns often gave alternative colour schemes for the designs - right down to the shade of stockings!

Good Needlework 1933

1933

This is a design in 2 ply, with a very interesting shape. It is in 'bluebell' stitch, little clusters of lace. The garter stitch yoke is most unusual, but the deciding factor is the cap to match! I always try to have a hat to match a favourite vintage jumper.

1933

This jumper is from the same issue, but too good to miss out. In the famous feather and fan pattern, it has similarities with a jumper featured in A Stitch in Time Vol 1, which you can see on the cover of Good Needlework 1937, below. This one is in 4 ply, and has drop sleeves, as the back and front are knitted straight without armhole shaping. 

Good Needlework 1936

This butter yellow jumper has been in my 'queue' since I first saw this magazine.

1936

It ticks all the boxes for me. It is lightweight, in 3 ply, but knit loosely so fewer stitches are needed! Hoorah. I love the look and feel of fine knitting, but I also want it off the needles as quickly as possible. The softly pleated jabot is the finishing touch. And, if that's not enough, you have the option of long sleeves if you are a 'chilly mortal'.

'What colour scheme will you choose?

Jumper. Butter-yellow with white jabot

Skirt. Matching yellow, Angora woolen.

Accessories. Brown and white court-shoes and sun-beige stockings.

Jumper. Cabbage-green with a matching jabot.

Skirt. Sand-beige woollen, cut on the cross.

Accessories. A wide beige belt and beige suede sandals.

Jumper. Oyster-grey with lobster-pink jabot.

Skirt. Matching grey, novelty woollen.

Accessories. Grey coat, hat and handbag, matching pink gloves.

Jumper. Navy-blue with chamois-yellow jabot.

Skirt. Navy-blue mixture tweed.

Accessories. A chamois-yellow belt. Navy-blue and yellow bracelets.
(copied from the magazine itself)

Good Needlework 1936

This is another invaluable long-sleeved jumper, but with a deep cowl neckline, using 2 ply wool, in a lacy, bobbly rib. The buttoned cuffs are a nice touch. And belted jumpers are just so chic.

Three Good Colour-Schemes

Jumper. Chalk-white. Black buttons.

Skirt. Fine black basket-weave woollen. 

Accessories. Narrow back kid belt. Black kid shoes.

Jumper. Aquamarine-green. Brown buttons.

Skirt. Cinnamon-brown woollen.

Accessories. Plaited brown suede belt. Brown suede Oxfordettes.

Jumper. Melon-pink. Navy-blue buttons.

Skirt. Navy-blue tweed.

Accessories. Navy-blue calf shoes. Wide navy-blue belt.

(copied from the magazine itself)

Good Needlework 1937

I couldn't decide between these two (below), so they both made the cut. The one on the left (above) found it's way into A Stitch in Time Vol 1, so I've already made that.

1937

Both in 3 ply, the first has wide cables paired with a ribbed yoke, just right to wear with a 'light spring suit'.

Colour-Scheme No.1

Jumper. Buttercup-yellow. Amber-brown buttons.

Skirt. Linen-tweed, to match.

Accessories. Brown kid sandals. Yellow linen hat with brown Petersham ribbon.

Colour-Scheme No.2

Jumper. Royal purple. Square glass buttons.

Skirt. Eggshell-beige wool-crepe.

Accessories. Beige linen shoes. Matching beige felt hat. Beige gloves. Purple handbag.

The second jumper (right), has the 'New Square-Neck, quite perfect for cruising'. Knitted in a lozenge-like pattern, this issue has outdone itself with suggestions for five different colour combinations.

Colour-Scheme No.1

Jumper. Pale ash-grey. Jade green buttons,

Skirt. Matching grey waffle woollen.

Accessories. A wide jade-green belt. Grey reptile shoes and handbag. Grey hat. Jade-green gloves.

Colour-Scheme No.3

Jumper. Bright parrot-green. Matching green buttons.

Skirt. Ivory-white linen.

Accessories. Green and white kid sandals. Green, white and orange bracelets. 'Cannes' beige stockings.

Colour-Scheme No.4

Jumper. Rust-brown. Brown wooden buttons,

Skirt. Matching brown woollen.

Accessories. Coral-pink belt and scarf. Brown kid shoes. Brown hat with coral trimming.

Colour-Scheme No. 5

Jumper. Misty navy-blue. White 'daisy' buttons.

Skirt. Navy, red and white checked woollen.

Accessories. Checked jacket, to match the skirt. Navy-blue shoes. Navy-blue hat with red and white trimming.

(copied from the magazine itself)

Good Needlework 1938

The last jumper from the Good Needlework series is from 1938. The cut-outs at the neckline were too much to resist. Teamed with leaf-patterned lace and ribbing, what's not to love?

Colour-Scheme No.1

Jumper. Bois-de-Rose Pink.

Skirt. Fine woollen, to tone, mottled with black.

Accessories. Black patent-leather court shoes. Pink hat, black gloves and handbag.

Colour-Scheme No.2

Jumper. Aquamarine Green.

Skirt. Dark Ox-blood red marocain.

Accessories. Matching red suede sandals, belt and pochette. Aquamarine hat with red ribbon.

(copied from the magazine itself)

Seven down, forty-three to go! Jumper Jill is in four of the seven so far. I wonder how she will fare in the rest? And did women ever wear trousers?

Theodora.

Free Pattern Friday - Golden Eagle Lady's Jumper

A really classic knitting pattern this month, a solid 1940s number with a sweet two-colour design and shaped rib. It even has two little pockets to add further interest.

Using 3 ply wool, 3 ozs in each of two shades, one light and one dark. For long sleeves, 4 ozs of each.

For a bust size of 34 - 36 inches.

Needles used are 2.75mm and 3.25mm.

If I didn't have such an aversion to colourwork it would go on The List. I think the longer I leave it, fair isle. that is, the harder it will be to tackle it again. It looks so lovely though.

Theodora.

New Year - New Knit

A new vintage knit, from the May 1935 edition of Stitchcraft. 

Called Square Yoke, Flared Sleeves.

I was so eager to photograph it I took a pic before sewing on the buttons.

I went for simple mother of pearl ones.

The wool used for the original was Paton's Super Brindle, which I had never heard of before. It was a little tricky to work out how to substitute. The needles used were 3mm, 3.25mm, 3.75mm and 4 mm. Tension required was one pattern repeat (9 sts), to 1.5 inches. It didn't look like a dk wool in the photograph, but more like a 4 ply. I did my tension swatch with Jamieson & Smith's 2 ply jumper wool, which I find knits to a true vintage 4 ply. It worked well, so I cast on and got going.

It knit up pretty quickly, and was a simple, but still interesting enough pattern to keep me from getting bored. It was knitted straight without any armhole shaping, the yoke left on a holder and worked after shoulders were joined. The sleeves are sewn on flat before any other sewing up is done. Lots of steam and pressing, especially the lace part of the sleeves, to get that flare. The only really annoying part was the decreasing on the yoke, which is not symmetrical. (The reason the buttons were added?)

As you may have noticed, I took these photos myself, in the mirror, so they leave a lot to be desired.

I have realised another reason I love to knit these vintage jumpers is the detective work that goes into it. Trying to find the perfect yarn, the perfect tension, the perfect length. Mine has turned out shorter than the original, but it sits on my natural waist, so it is fine. I think it is actually a teensy bit snug, and that is because I didn't go up to the 4mm needles, but stuck with the 3.75mm ones, as these are what gave me the correct tension. That would explain why I only needed 6 ounces! Still, better than horribly baggy.

Theodora.

Free Pattern (Black) Friday

The free pattern this month is from 'Easy Stitch Jumpers', a small sized magazine that was originally a free giveaway with My Weekly magazine. It looks to be mid 1930s.

This pattern is knitted in K1, P1 rib and moss stitch, it has a pretty contrast collar and cuffs, with little ties. The colour suggestions are rather fun: primrose and brown, or 'Margaret Rose' (which must mean a pink shade) and brown. Or the safe choice of navy and white, or scarlet and white.

Worked in 3 ply wool, with a tension of 7 stitches and 9.5 rows to an inch. Instructions are for long or short sleeves.

We celebrated Thanksgiving yesterday, as my husband is American. Turkey and all the trimmings. My husband even baked a pumpkin pie. It was lovely.

Theodora.

Free Pattern Friday - 'Corrugated Stripes'

This pattern is from the Woman's Journal 7th Book of Knitting and Crochet from 1935. (I think).

This is a scanned pattern from the British Library's archives. Actually it is a picture from my phone, as I forgot to scan this magazine, and quickly took some pics before having to give it back. I hope the text is clear enough.

I chose it because it is a very simple design, suitable for a beginner. It has 'magyar' sleeves (I love that word), which means the jumper is knitted up and over, with the sleeves cast on as part of it. Which also means no sewing up of shoulder seams, or sleeves eased into armholes - hooray!

I have only knitted one jumper in this style before, and loved it. I have also done baby matinee jackets and jumpers in this 'magyar' style, as it was very popular in the 1930s and 1940s.

Image courtesy of Alistair McCaskill

This is a pattern from a Beehive booklet from the 1930s, suggestively named 'Interlude'.

The pattern for ' Corrugated Stripes' is a simple 6 row repeat, with just knit and purl rows. The yarn used is equivalent to a modern 4 ply going by the tension. For a larger size, you could try using a DK weight, but go up a needle size too.

There are so many lovely patterns I want to share from the British Library, but I am finding the scanning very tricky, as Caroline (The Sunny Stitcher) has mentioned before. It is hard to get the bound copies to lay flat without damaging them, and I am so loathe to do that, as many are already in such a fragile state. There is also a problem with glare from the scanner, which affects the text, but by tilting the magazine it seems to help. It is a trial and error process, which I will persevere with; weighting the pages down with tiny sand bags, beads and my hand obscured under black paper!

I hope you like it.

Theodora.

Free Pattern Friday - a prize winning jumper

This pattern is from The Needlewoman magazine from July 1934. Worked in 'Viyella' laceweight wool in red, white and blue. To fit a 34 inch bust. (The pattern is at the end of the post).

I chose this design because it took first place in The Needlewoman competition, but also because they name the designer. '...an original design by Miss E. W. Fisher...'

The 'house' designers working for magazines had no such fame, they anonymously toiled away, churning out designs week after week, unaware that their work would be so highly regarded 80 years later, (by me at least). I would absolutely love to know who they were, what they thought of their job, and how much they were paid in comparison to clothes designers. The couturier Schiaparelli occasionally designed for The Needlewoman in the 1930s, to great acclaim.

Schiaparelli - The Needlewoman

It is a very structured jacket, but I personally don't think it is as attractive or imaginative as the jumpers being designed by people who worked for the big knitting magazines like Stitchcraft, Good Needlework & Knitting, and Woman's Weekly. It is just a tailored jacket in knitted form. It was popular for that very reason; it successfully resembles a jacket sewn in fabric. A jacket smart enough for a lady to go riding in.

I have also included the page on which the runners up and their designs are featured. It is fascinating reading (for vintage knit geeks). First prize was three guineas, and the 'consolation' prize one guinea. This competition was so close for runner up that a third place was awarded for the 'Harlequin' jumper, also an original design. It was let down only by the neck shaping and fit. I would have awarded it first place! It is by far the most fun.

What I also find interesting is the design that took second place (below), designed by a 'mere male!' This is actually the jumper I would be most likely to knit, but the 'Harlequin' jumper is still the most fetching, with it's contrasting bow neckline and belt.

Here is the pattern for the prize-winning jumper.

I hope you like it.

Theodora.

Free Pattern Friday - The Smartest Thing in Plain Knitting

Easy enough for a beginner and in a larger size

Thank you all for the comments on my last post about what 'women of a certain age' should or shouldn't wear. I cringe writing that phrase. There is so much more I want to discuss about this, so watch out for more posts on women daring to age in public. Funnily enough, I found another blog post about this issue, written a couple of days before mine, by Forever Amber. She had seen an article on Facebook - 24 Things Women Should Stop Wearing After Age 30. (I did NOT click on the link to read the article - I didn't want to be sucked into it. I've got enough to be angry about!). Amber commented on it in a way I would expect of any woman over 30. It is so worth reading; she is a fab writer.

The free vintage pattern this month is a very elegant long sleeved jumper/jacket, and I chose it because of the model.

'Jumper Jill' gracing the covers of my Good Needlework's

Caroline, The Sunny Stitcher, recently shared a vintage pattern featuring this model, and it seems we are both intrigued by this nameless woman. She has fascinated me since I got my hands on a copy of Jane Waller's 1972 edition of 'A Stitch In Time' in 2007, and for the purposes of this post I will refer to her as the name The Sunny Stitcher has given her: Jumper Jill. The earliest I have seen her is from 1932 in Woman and Home magazine, wearing With A New Cowl Neckline, which I modelled for the updated edition of 'A Stitch In Time'. Seeing her over and over in the jumpers that were to be recreated for the book, her face became so familiar to me, as did her expressions and poses. She is the complete opposite in looks to me, but I adore her. I think the main reason I collect these magazines is for her. I like to see how her hair and makeup changed over the decade. I'm a total fan girl.

Image A Stitch In Time 1972

Here she is in Stitchcraft magazine from 1933, in a very alluring pose, modelling lingerie. Called 'Step-Ins', I tried to step into a beautifully crocheted version to be photographed for the book and couldn't get them past my thighs. In fact, I ripped the stitching!

Image - A Stitch In Time 1972

(She looked just as elegant in a knitted dressing gown.)

She is the most popular model of the 1930s - and considering the explosion of knitting design that happened in that decade, that is quite something. I wonder if she was stopped in the street by women of all ages and mobbed for her autograph? I doubt it. I imagine she had a very ordinary life, although I would like to think that she went to wild cocktail parties hosted by Noel Coward, and danced all night with men who weren't her husband.

'Jumper Jill' graced the covers and pages of magazines including Woman's Weekly, My Home, Stitchcraft, Woman and Home, and Good Needlework and Knitting, which is one of my personal favourites. The patterns are very well written, always include schematics, and the best thing is the suggested colour schemes. They excite me more than they should, but it is a glimpse into fashion history. It seems so elaborate now to think of planning an outfit, an everyday outfit (not occasion wear), down to the shade of your stockings. And yet, women's wardrobes were so much smaller than ours - capsule in fact. The Girl With The Star Spangled Heart has done some great blog posts about capsule wardrobes, particularly the 1940s one. A suit for every season, a few day dresses, evening dresses, and maybe two coats? Oh, and tons of accessories. I would not be able to make that work - or would I?

I would really like to know about her, where she lived - London? How did she start modelling knitwear? What was it like working with the photographers then, and what was the studio like? Did the knitwear designers style the shoots, or were they just kept busy churning out new patterns every week?

I think she was married, I've seen a ring on her finger in some photographs. Did she have children? And what was her name? She reminds me of Mrs de Winter in "Rebecca". She was gone by the 1940s, perhaps her 'look' had dated, but I don't think so. We'll probably never know. If there is anyone out there who has any information about this lovely lady, I would love to hear from you.

The jumper below is knit in the elusive 3 ply wool, with 3mm and 4mm needles. The size given is about 38 - 39 inches across the bust, and 20 - 21 inches long. 'Definitely the jumper should be in every wardrobe'.

The pattern stretches over a few pages, and unfortunately I had make do with phone pictures as I had scanned them with a really high resolution, and was then unable to upload them. (After more than an hour, I failed). I think they are still readable in this format, though.

Suggested Colour Schemes - Eek!

Now back to channeling Jumper Jill.

Theodora.

Free Pattern Friday - Cable-And-Tuft pattern jumper

I think I have been a bit slack in my free pattern shares recently. Sorry about that.

This one comes from a 1949 edition of Woman and Home.

Theodora.

Oops, I did it again

I've been weak again - I started another jumper. It has been on my list since I saw it on the cover of a wartime Stitchcraft magazine.

I've mentioned before about my slight obsession with knitting magazines, and I acquired this one a little while ago. I have to report that I have been a good knitter recently and have not been on Ebay.

It is described as a honeycomb pattern, and is more challenging than anything I have done recently, and I have to say I am really enjoying it. A bit of cable, a twist, all interspersed with ribbing. I haven't got far yet, but I only started on Monday. I had two reasons for starting it: I have had this wool in my collection for a long time, saving it for a very special knitted. It is a very close colour match. I found the buttons at Spitalfields market, but I still haven't found a buckle, which is quite crucial. I've really got to hunt one down to match the buttons. The original uses buttons to tone with the bag, I think, but I don't think I'll make the bag.

The second reason for starting this was her pose and the turban she is wearing. It's just so chic. If I try to recreate that pose I might need to invest in some more blusher! Woah, that is all the rouge.

This is my new project bag. The moment I saw it at the E17 Art Trail, I knew I had to have it. I have one of the old row counters that is printed on it. It is from Dotty Designs, and can accommodate quite a hefty amount of wool! It lives next to my sofa now, in full view, not stuffed in the corner with all the lost souls of half-finished knits.

This week I went to an L7 gig in Camden town at The Electric Ballroom. It had been quite a long time since I went to a gig, and - wait for it - more than 20 years since I last saw L7! (I may as well come clean, it's not like I'm pretending to be a young flibbertigibbet.) It was at the now (in)famous 1992 Reading festival. L7 were wonderfully wild and already notorious, riding on the (short-lived) 3rd wave of feminist optimism, as was I. I wore a t-shirt by Silverfish emblazoned with the slogan 'Hips, Tits, Lips, Power'.

They did not disappoint. My friends and I got in just as L7 went on, deciding on one last quick drink in one of our old haunts The Good Mixer.

Err, I don't know what I'm doing here. Too many Snakebites.

I went with my two Riot Grrrl buds, Shanthi and Nese. We used to roam the streets of Camden Town on a regular basis, but Nese and I both have children, so now we mostly roam playgrounds and parks.

We shoved our way down near the front, and the crowd just boiled when they played 'Andres'. After a few songs, we looked guiltily at each other, and decided we needed a drink. Not that the pit was too much for us or anything!

Ah, it was fun being 'young' and carefree again. Glad I got the last Tube home, though.

Theodora.