E17 Designers Autumn Market

I missed a blog post last week due to my frenzied making of things to sell at the E17 Designers Autumn Market this Sunday. I have been putting the finishing touches to the brooches and hats I'll be trying to sell there.

I did some 1940s style brooches, which I hope will go down well, as they would make nice gifts. At least, that's what I did with all the others I have ever made.

I designed 'Posy of Violets' a good while ago now, and have added to it since, with 'A Brace of Acorns', 'Bows & Bells' and 'Autumn Berries'. Only one of the patterns is available to buy on Etsy at the moment, so whatever I don't sell at the fair I will add to Etsy, in good time for Christmas shopping. Along with the option to just buy the patterns for the others.

A few hats, crocheted in muted tones, with a bit of chocolate thrown in.

This shot captures the colour well of what I'm calling 'A Lacy Beret'. I can't work out whether it is pale sage green, or an aquamarine blue. I don't think it really matters. It looks good with the brown alpaca.

I'm doing the fair with a friend and fellow wool-head Helen Reed of The Wool Kitchen, who will be selling her urban hand dyed yarn.

These are the berets I will have on display there. 'A Draped Beret', and 'A Lacy Beret'.

I will also be selling the patterns for the hats above - 'A Beret for Everyday, 'A Draped Beret'. 'Moss Stitch Beret' and 'Pom Pom Hat'. They are £3.

The hardest bit will be no surprise to the other makers out there who try to sell - working our how much to charge. I'm still not sure, I keep changing my mind, and trying to calculate time plus materials, and balancing it with what I think people might expect to pay.

Despite all the stressing over getting things ready, I'm really looking forward to it now. If you are in the area, or are planning on coming, please do come and say 'hello' to me and Helen. I will be easy to spot, I'll be wearing a hat, and I'll be knitting.

Theodora.

My journalistic debut for In Retrospect magazine

Image rozrussell.com

I have become a 'reader' at the British Library, and a 'writer' for In Retrospect magazine.

The former feeds my need to look at vintage knitting patterns all day long. (It doesn't fulfill my need to own them, but I'm hoping that will follow, before I have to re-mortgage the house to pay for them).

The latter is something I have never done before, and it was one of the hardest things I have ever undertaken. Anyone who thinks writing is a doddle is either a natural, a genius, or has never tried. I have so much respect for good writing. Many of my friends make it look effortless, from music journalists to novelists.

Mat Keller asked me to write a piece about the music of the 1930s after hearing me play it at my house when he came to interview and photograph me for his Southern Retro series for In Retrospect magazine. He had also seen the Shellac Sisters in action at the Rivoli Ballroom several years ago. I kept jumping up and changing the song every 3 minutes, and I expect my passion for the hot dance music of the 1930s became apparent, if somewhat annoying. It was really important for me to have the music I love playing while being photographed wearing clothes from that time. (It helped with the nerves, as it was still too early for cocktails!)

Image Mat Keller for the Southern Retro Collection

Naturally I chose to wear knitteds. This is my cable jumper, a Copley's pattern from 1940, worn over my now threadbare 1940's day dress.

Image Mat Keller for the Southern Retro Collection

The hat is a design I haven't released yet, called 'Hat with a Tilted Brim'. It is crocheted in Fenella 2 ply wool, by Susan Crawford Vintage.

Image Mat Keller for the Southern Retro Collection

The wool cupboard, in its untidy state. (Did you notice the moth killer at the back? Oops.) Here I'm wearing a 30's full length floral dress, which is a favourite, and goes very well with my 'Draped Beret'.

Image Mat Keller for the Southern Retro Collection

Here I am on a typical day, lounging on the sofa, reading The Needlewoman, and deciding where to lunch (I wish). I'm wearing The Rose Jumper from A Stitch in Time Vol 1.

I got very nervous when the magazine arrived, but my article was there, as well as the Southern Retro interview. There was a lovely article by Miriam McDonald about vintage caravans, and why they make such a great holiday choice for accommodation. I also enjoyed her piece in the last issue about Jazz Age holidays, which included the hotel I long to visit - The Burgh Island Hotel.

It was grand meeting Mat, and we had a good chat about everything from babies to bakelite, and, of course, 78s and vintage knits.

Theodora.

New Hat Designs on Etsy

With the E17 Autumn Designers' Market coming up in early October, I have been busy making hats and brooches to sell.

I have now put up some more patterns on Etsy. Here's the link.

 Pom Pom Hat

 Moss Stitch Beret

A Draped Beret

I was a bit nervous about A Draped Beret as it is my first design for a beret in crochet, but I have been rigorous with the testing, and the checking of the pattern (over and over), and it is ready.

My little shop is starting to take shape, I just need to add a few more brooch patterns, and I'll be happy with it.

Have a look, and let me know what you think. (If there are glaring errors, eek)!

We had another Mixtape last night, so I need to lie down now and try to recover from the wine.

Theodora.

We're Gonna Hang Out The Washing On The Knitted Line - Part 2

Bored of the knits yet? I'm not. In fact these posts have made me realise I haven't got nearly enough! And these aren't even all of them, but the others are either duller colours, or cardigans (which are tricky to hang on a line).

I've been longing for some colder weather, and at last I can start wearing my woolens again.

I'll start with 'Embroidered With Tiny Flowers', from, you guessed it - A Stitch In Time. I knitted this before the new edition was even photographed. In fact, I finished it just before the first shoot in February 2008, and took it with me. It was a hit with Susan Crawford, and it ended up in the book. I knit it in the first (and only) size from the original pattern.

Unfortunately, you can't always rely on vintage patterns being free of errors, which is one of the reasons I now prefer to knit patterns from updated versions of vintage knitwear. To put in excess of 40 hours into a jumper, then for it to turn out the wrong size is a little infuriating. That's not to say you can't ever work from an original pattern, and even size it up or down, you just need to know what you're doing. I still have a recent example of this on the needles (When Jumpers Go Bad, from June 8th).

The tiny flowers were the first embroidery I had attempted, and they were sweet and fun to do at first. However, after a few hours I realised I wasn't even halfway through. Still, it got done, and I was thrilled with the result. I used Drops Alpaca which is super cheap, and made it for less than £20! Alpaca gets bloody hot though; I've worn it dancing, and I bake.

Here is 'Such Flattering Puff Sleeves', in Jamieson & Smith 2 ply jumper yarn.

This strong mustard shade for 'Such Flattering Puff Sleeves' is long discontinued by Rowan now (Scottish Tweed 4 ply - I was lucky to get it in the sale). One of the simplest knits you could ever undertake, which makes it a really satisfying beginner project. I would strongly suggest knitting shoulder pads in the same yarn, or all that knitting will be wasted without the puff. Also, unlike so many vintage patterns from the 1930s which require 3 ply wool, this calls for a 4 ply. A plethora of yarn choices!

The beret in the middle is the pattern I mentioned being photographed in my last post. It's now almost ready to go, if I can stop stressing about any mistakes and the layout of the pattern. It's not like it's a new design - it's from 2006! It will probably take a bit longer. Grr.

Onto the 'Eleanor Sweater' from 'The Corticelli Sweaters for Spring' booklet. It is one of Iva Rose's copies. I made this with some coned pale grey cashmere. The pink is angora, from Orkney Angora.

I have to eat my words about not trusting original patterns, but then I had no choice, this was made pre-Stitch In Time. I had to hunt around for button moulds, but they really set off the jumper. Such a simple design but so pretty. I haven't worn it that much, as again the heat factor is off-putting. It is the first and last time I have knitted with cashmere. Give me breathable wool please. Cotton's good too...and silk...

Next is my leafy green 'It Cannot Fail to Please'. I've talked about this in a previous post, so I won't go on about it. The pale green beret next to it is rather a good shade to tone with it, though. Knitted in an aran weight alpaca and silk mix, it has such a wonderful sheen and drape, even after years of wear.

Let's look at the Copley's wartime jumper again. The pattern calls for 3 ply 'Excelsior' or 'Climax' wool. I'd certainly get excited if I could get my hands on that wool now! I knitted it in 'supersoft' lambswool from the Handweaver's Studio. It's not actually soft - it's quite scratchy, in fact, but I don't mind. It holds its shape better than softer yarns. The colour I used is no longer available, and I recently bought some to try out the tension for a skirt. It's not strictly a 4 ply, but nearer a 3 ply. I wouldn't recommend it without stringent tension swatching. You have been warned.

It comes on cones - what is it about me and cones? I couldn't get enough of them back then. I took along my 1940s floral dress to the shop to match the colour so I could pair them up.

(Sorry, but this is one of the only pics I have of me wearing it!)

I knitted some shoulder pads for it, even though the original doesn't have them. I think
it suits the short-sleeved version. The velvet ribbon finishes it off (along with some badges).

To finish: 'The Rose Jumper', a very special knit for me, which features on the cover of A Stitch In Time.

The silk and big sleeves make it quite heavy on the washing line, but it is a beauty.

I'm a bit knitted-out now, so I need to rest before Saturday when I am going to a Joan Crawford dinner party - a virtual one! - to mark the launch of the Joan Crawford cookbook by Silver Screen Suppers. I'm particularly looking forward to making the Joan Crawford cocktail. And taking some funny pictures of the cooking and drinking while wearing my own Joan Crawford.

I hope you liked my knitted washing line. I've enjoyed doing it, and writing about it.

Theodora.

We're Gonna Hang Out The Washing On The Knitted Line - Part 1

I haven't had a chance to photograph many knits recently, I've been trying to finish a few designs. One is almost ready to share, and I did get my brother and my long suffering husband to take some shots of it. I'm now in the process of uploading it to Ravelry, which seems to be much more complicated than it should be, but then I am no expert on these things - I'm still finding my way around this laptop. Here is the song this post is based on if you want to have a listen:

We're Gonna Hang Out the Washing On The Seigfried Line

I wanted to try some more outdoor shots, so these were taken in the morning in my garden. I was constantly trying to outrun the sun, but this is a bunch of knits old and new - all vintage patterns, of course, except the hats, which are my original designs. Naturally I want them to look vintage, but the proof is in the wearing.

Some of you might recognise this - it's Starring Stripes from the wonderful Zilredloh's blog. Finished at last - I only started it in March! I am so pleased with the colours, I got an almost perfect match to the original. It did come out slightly big, but I thought it might, with my use of a 'sportweight' wool, (which I think is equivalent to a heavy 4 ply? Please correct me if I am wrong). The main natural shade is 3 ply but the rest are all 4 ply. So it does make a difference. Luckily the jumper is worn with a little ease, so I can get away with it. Next to it you will see a hat to match. I couldn't resist, I had just enough yarn left. It is one of my new patterns called 'Hat With A Tilted Brim'.

Please excuse the camera phone pic. 

Didn't quite outrun the sunshine here... The yellow 'blouse' is from The Lux Book, 1940 I think. Knitted it years ago, it's a teensy bit snug now. My good pal Wozza shot it for me back in 2008.

In the glamorous location of Cannes - sorry, Cafe Rouge in Southgate.

This wool is from a cone, 3 ply or finer, turned out too short for Long Torso T, but great with vintage sailor pants.

Here it is being worn with a flying baby. At a 78 record fair, obviously.

Back to my washing line. On the left is another knit from A Stitch In Time Vol 1 - 'Such a Debonair Little Jumper'. Knit in a fine alpaca, it is super soft. On the far left, you can just see a grey hat with a jaunty bow, and in the middle another hat in Fenella, in shade Chalk. These are two more of my 'Hat With A Tilted Brim'.

Here is 'Such a Debonair Little Jumper' with ribbons threaded through (left), or accessorised with vintage dress clips and a baby Gladstone. (Right).
 

           



I'll leave you with me cheesing it up at The Blitz Party after a few too many Gin & Its. This little magenta beauty is from a 1940 Copleys leaflet. I know it is from 1940 because the original owner pencilled it at the top in very neat handwriting - Feb 29th 1940.

I'll show you the rest of my washing line in my next post, and a bit more about this Copley's creation.

Theodora.

Hats, hats and more hats

I quite like hats.

In fact, I bloody love them. Knitted, crocheted, felt, fabric, straw...

I thought I would give some of mine an outing.

These are some of the knitted ones.

And some of the crocheted ones.

Hats to match jumpers I've knitted, a favorite vintage dress, a knitted scarf, gloves, or my winter coat.
 
The vast majority are berets. That was no surprise to me, but the colours are. I thought I had more red, but there is a distinct lack of it. So many muted colours, some brights, and a lot of black crocheted hats. I've broken my no-black rule!

The first beret I designed was back in 2002 for Cast Off, the first guerilla knitting group to spring up in London, the brainchild of Rachael Matthews of Prick Your Finger. It was made in mohair, and I called it my Raspberry Beret as I had just launched an 80s club night with my then boyfriend called Prom Night. I went through a phase of knitting nothing but mohair berets in crazy colours - and I still wear them.





















I can't find that ruby red one now, and you can just see the Raspberry Beret on the right, worn with another of my knitting (and crochet) obsessions - bows.

What is it about hats? Why don't we wear them every day now?

The Shellac Sisters always wear hats, usually supplied by the wonderful milliner Jane Fryers. The hat I'm wearing below also doubles as a weapon - I nearly took out a few eyes last time I wore it!

More Jane Fryers creations in velvet. (That's her on the far right).

It's part of the whole vintage package. You can't go full-on vintage without a hat. They finish an outfit, pull it all together.

A hat can do so much for you, it can reflect your mood. It cheers me up no end to put on a brightly coloured beret and a slick of red lipstick. Hats take me off into a fantasy world, along with 30s dance bands.

Put on a big slouchy beanie and you can hide from the world. Or pull a man's baseball cap down low and no one will recognise you. I've done that a few times. Essential for bad hair days. They can be immensely practical, but also utterly ridiculous.

Is that a beard?

In an aside, I've been meaning to get this pic up of Rosalind Russell in The Women, one of my all time favorite movies. Glamorous, and knitting. Role model? You bet!

Oh Carmen. She did kind of pull it off though. The bigger the personality, the bigger the hat.

I think that is the key. Confidence. Or just having no shame. You have to be the kind of person who thinks it's a great idea to knit a matching raspberry beret for your baby. (And a Pineapple Dance Studio style sweatshirt with matching legwarmers). Poor B.

Men and women wore hats every day until the 1960s, and some older people never stopped wearing them. My grandmother never went to mass without her hat on, and my grandfather was never seen out in public without his trilby. Most people only wear them in Winter now, just to keep warm. Sensible, but so dull. Especially if you look at the average Joe on the street. A dark coloured machine-made beanie. Yawn.

I'm so glad Autumn is here, so many more opportunities to wear hats. And inflict them on my child.

So, what is it about hats? Do you love them or loathe them?