Free Pattern Friday - One to knit and one to crochet

It's half term this week, so I've been out and about with the children. Play dates, shopping, playing board games. It's been fun, but there has been very little time for knitting.

The free patterns this time are from Woman's Journal 6th book of Knitting and Crochet, from 1935. Found at the British Library, but not scans, just pics again I'm afraid.

'Crochet this Three colour jumper! The main part is just two straight pieces with the new straight-across neckline.'

This looked interesting, as I am yet to crochet a whole garment. And why not start with a vintage one? Stitches used are dc (double crochet), and dtr (double treble).

 Excuse my thumb!

I assume it is designed for summer, with it's cap sleeves and airy pattern. So if I start now, I might finish it by June! What I like is the combination of knit and crochet, with the waistband and cuffs knitted in rib, as there is really no equivalent to the stretchiness in crochet. It gives it a very professional finish.

I would do it in cotton, but the original suggests wool. The colour combination sounds a little dull too. Dark brown, medium brown and fawn. Very 30s though.

For the knitting pattern I chose this for the unusual shape, and the colour, I'm a sucker for bluey greens. And belt buckles!

'With a Slit Basque. A Charming Jumper With a Waistcoat Effect. 

Here is the new line in jumpers for those who cannot wear the short waist-length. This one, knitted in basket pattern, has a basque with an open front which gives play round the hips o' various measurements at that point.'

It is larger than the usual jumpers, at 37 inches around the bust. And longer, at 22 inches from shoulder to lower edge.

'A pretty stitch, a neat Eton collar, buttons at the back, and a slit basque are all points that encourage you to make this jumper which looks enchanting in green. If you are going on a cruise it is ideal to slip on when the air is crisp, or you could have it in white for tennis.'

Ah, I can only imagine how glamourous cruises were in the mid 1930s, and all the chic knitwear that accompanied them. And beach pyjamas. And evening gowns.

I'm off to plan my summer cruise wear.

Or maybe just clear up the mess in the house caused by children. Oh, the glamour.

Theodora.

The Jumper on the Cover - Stitchcraft October 1937

The moment I saw the cover of this Stitchcraft, I knew I wanted to knit it. I could see it was done in 'thick' wool, but it was also very flattering. Win win. Quick knitting, warm, and not too bulky. And finished in time for winter.

It is only the second long sleeved jumper I have ever knitted, so I imagine it will get lots of wear. I was so impatient to wear it, I finished sewing it up on the tube to the British Library, and changed into it while I was there. I did get a few funny looks in the loo, as there were still a couple of ends sticking out. Thankfully, I met Caroline there (The Sunny Stitcher), and she kindly sewed them in for me.

Between the rain showers this week, I got my husband to take some quick pics of the jumper in our garden.

The original yarn suggested was 'Totem' by P&B. The tension required was 16 stitches to 10cm, which meant a nice aran weight yarn. I actually had some Patons Classic Wool Worsted that I'd found in the States last year, but only 4 balls. I was sure it wouldn't be enough, but as they were 100g balls, at 192m each, I thought I'd take my chances.

And, as you can see, it was enough. I have possibly five or six metres left. I am often amazed at how economical vintage jumpers are with wool. That's why I'll keep on knitting them.

The front yoke has a very interesting diamond pattern, and is cast off straight across. The epaulettes and back yoke are knitted separately and sewn on. I have only one niggle - the sleeves are a tad too short. I should have measured them on myself before the armhole shaping. It pulls the shoulder down slightly.

I paired it with a new design called A Lacy Beret, which is an almost exact match to the shade of the jumper. I still can't tell whether it is blue or green, but I love it.

Theodora.

E17 Designers Autumn Market

I missed a blog post last week due to my frenzied making of things to sell at the E17 Designers Autumn Market this Sunday. I have been putting the finishing touches to the brooches and hats I'll be trying to sell there.

I did some 1940s style brooches, which I hope will go down well, as they would make nice gifts. At least, that's what I did with all the others I have ever made.

I designed 'Posy of Violets' a good while ago now, and have added to it since, with 'A Brace of Acorns', 'Bows & Bells' and 'Autumn Berries'. Only one of the patterns is available to buy on Etsy at the moment, so whatever I don't sell at the fair I will add to Etsy, in good time for Christmas shopping. Along with the option to just buy the patterns for the others.

A few hats, crocheted in muted tones, with a bit of chocolate thrown in.

This shot captures the colour well of what I'm calling 'A Lacy Beret'. I can't work out whether it is pale sage green, or an aquamarine blue. I don't think it really matters. It looks good with the brown alpaca.

I'm doing the fair with a friend and fellow wool-head Helen Reed of The Wool Kitchen, who will be selling her urban hand dyed yarn.

These are the berets I will have on display there. 'A Draped Beret', and 'A Lacy Beret'.

I will also be selling the patterns for the hats above - 'A Beret for Everyday, 'A Draped Beret'. 'Moss Stitch Beret' and 'Pom Pom Hat'. They are £3.

The hardest bit will be no surprise to the other makers out there who try to sell - working our how much to charge. I'm still not sure, I keep changing my mind, and trying to calculate time plus materials, and balancing it with what I think people might expect to pay.

Despite all the stressing over getting things ready, I'm really looking forward to it now. If you are in the area, or are planning on coming, please do come and say 'hello' to me and Helen. I will be easy to spot, I'll be wearing a hat, and I'll be knitting.

Theodora.

Free Pattern Friday - 'Corrugated Stripes'

This pattern is from the Woman's Journal 7th Book of Knitting and Crochet from 1935. (I think).

This is a scanned pattern from the British Library's archives. Actually it is a picture from my phone, as I forgot to scan this magazine, and quickly took some pics before having to give it back. I hope the text is clear enough.

I chose it because it is a very simple design, suitable for a beginner. It has 'magyar' sleeves (I love that word), which means the jumper is knitted up and over, with the sleeves cast on as part of it. Which also means no sewing up of shoulder seams, or sleeves eased into armholes - hooray!

I have only knitted one jumper in this style before, and loved it. I have also done baby matinee jackets and jumpers in this 'magyar' style, as it was very popular in the 1930s and 1940s.

Image courtesy of Alistair McCaskill

This is a pattern from a Beehive booklet from the 1930s, suggestively named 'Interlude'.

The pattern for ' Corrugated Stripes' is a simple 6 row repeat, with just knit and purl rows. The yarn used is equivalent to a modern 4 ply going by the tension. For a larger size, you could try using a DK weight, but go up a needle size too.

There are so many lovely patterns I want to share from the British Library, but I am finding the scanning very tricky, as Caroline (The Sunny Stitcher) has mentioned before. It is hard to get the bound copies to lay flat without damaging them, and I am so loathe to do that, as many are already in such a fragile state. There is also a problem with glare from the scanner, which affects the text, but by tilting the magazine it seems to help. It is a trial and error process, which I will persevere with; weighting the pages down with tiny sand bags, beads and my hand obscured under black paper!

I hope you like it.

Theodora.

Rendezvous at the Russian Tea Rooms

I've been invited to the launch party for a book called Rendezvous at the Russian Tea Rooms by Paul Willetts.

Image courtesy of Paul Willetts

The book tells the story of a little-known yet significant espionage episode, most of which took place between May 1939 and May 1940. It focuses on three central characters: Anna Wolkoff was an haute couture fashion designer whose clients included the Duchess of Windsor, and who was also a spy for the Nazis. Tyler Kent was a womanising American diplomat who also doubled as a Soviet spy. Maxwell Knight was an urbane and eccentric spy hunter with MI5. The lives of these three characters became entwined as they moved amongst London's elite society during the first part of World War II, jeopardising the secrets of the wartime government.

Back in January, the book's author, Paul Willets, contacted me about being the model for the cover of the book. Unfortunately, I was in the midst of a horrid chest infection (which has left me with permanent damage to my lungs). I was in total denial about how sick I really was until just before the shoot was about to take place. I let him down terribly at the last minute, with only a weekend to find another model (which, thankfully, he did). I loaned him some dresses that belonged to an actor friend, Emma Bown (below). When he stopped at the house to pick them up, he brought me a huge box of chocolates. Instead of being cross - which he had every right to be - he was so thoughtful and kind. A true gentleman.

Image courtesy of Guy Myhill & Paul Willetts

This is Emma Bown, and she is in the trailer for the book, here.

I'm looking forward to dressing in something from the late 1930s, and having a fun night out. My good chum Simone will be accompanying me, and undoubtedly she will be dressed beautifully, as always. I predict by the end of the evening we will be in Cahoots!

Theodora.

My journalistic debut for In Retrospect magazine

Image rozrussell.com

I have become a 'reader' at the British Library, and a 'writer' for In Retrospect magazine.

The former feeds my need to look at vintage knitting patterns all day long. (It doesn't fulfill my need to own them, but I'm hoping that will follow, before I have to re-mortgage the house to pay for them).

The latter is something I have never done before, and it was one of the hardest things I have ever undertaken. Anyone who thinks writing is a doddle is either a natural, a genius, or has never tried. I have so much respect for good writing. Many of my friends make it look effortless, from music journalists to novelists.

Mat Keller asked me to write a piece about the music of the 1930s after hearing me play it at my house when he came to interview and photograph me for his Southern Retro series for In Retrospect magazine. He had also seen the Shellac Sisters in action at the Rivoli Ballroom several years ago. I kept jumping up and changing the song every 3 minutes, and I expect my passion for the hot dance music of the 1930s became apparent, if somewhat annoying. It was really important for me to have the music I love playing while being photographed wearing clothes from that time. (It helped with the nerves, as it was still too early for cocktails!)

Image Mat Keller for the Southern Retro Collection

Naturally I chose to wear knitteds. This is my cable jumper, a Copley's pattern from 1940, worn over my now threadbare 1940's day dress.

Image Mat Keller for the Southern Retro Collection

The hat is a design I haven't released yet, called 'Hat with a Tilted Brim'. It is crocheted in Fenella 2 ply wool, by Susan Crawford Vintage.

Image Mat Keller for the Southern Retro Collection

The wool cupboard, in its untidy state. (Did you notice the moth killer at the back? Oops.) Here I'm wearing a 30's full length floral dress, which is a favourite, and goes very well with my 'Draped Beret'.

Image Mat Keller for the Southern Retro Collection

Here I am on a typical day, lounging on the sofa, reading The Needlewoman, and deciding where to lunch (I wish). I'm wearing The Rose Jumper from A Stitch in Time Vol 1.

I got very nervous when the magazine arrived, but my article was there, as well as the Southern Retro interview. There was a lovely article by Miriam McDonald about vintage caravans, and why they make such a great holiday choice for accommodation. I also enjoyed her piece in the last issue about Jazz Age holidays, which included the hotel I long to visit - The Burgh Island Hotel.

It was grand meeting Mat, and we had a good chat about everything from babies to bakelite, and, of course, 78s and vintage knits.

Theodora.

New Hat Designs on Etsy

With the E17 Autumn Designers' Market coming up in early October, I have been busy making hats and brooches to sell.

I have now put up some more patterns on Etsy. Here's the link.

 Pom Pom Hat

 Moss Stitch Beret

A Draped Beret

I was a bit nervous about A Draped Beret as it is my first design for a beret in crochet, but I have been rigorous with the testing, and the checking of the pattern (over and over), and it is ready.

My little shop is starting to take shape, I just need to add a few more brooch patterns, and I'll be happy with it.

Have a look, and let me know what you think. (If there are glaring errors, eek)!

We had another Mixtape last night, so I need to lie down now and try to recover from the wine.

Theodora.

Free Pattern Friday - a prize winning jumper

This pattern is from The Needlewoman magazine from July 1934. Worked in 'Viyella' laceweight wool in red, white and blue. To fit a 34 inch bust. (The pattern is at the end of the post).

I chose this design because it took first place in The Needlewoman competition, but also because they name the designer. '...an original design by Miss E. W. Fisher...'

The 'house' designers working for magazines had no such fame, they anonymously toiled away, churning out designs week after week, unaware that their work would be so highly regarded 80 years later, (by me at least). I would absolutely love to know who they were, what they thought of their job, and how much they were paid in comparison to clothes designers. The couturier Schiaparelli occasionally designed for The Needlewoman in the 1930s, to great acclaim.

Schiaparelli - The Needlewoman

It is a very structured jacket, but I personally don't think it is as attractive or imaginative as the jumpers being designed by people who worked for the big knitting magazines like Stitchcraft, Good Needlework & Knitting, and Woman's Weekly. It is just a tailored jacket in knitted form. It was popular for that very reason; it successfully resembles a jacket sewn in fabric. A jacket smart enough for a lady to go riding in.

I have also included the page on which the runners up and their designs are featured. It is fascinating reading (for vintage knit geeks). First prize was three guineas, and the 'consolation' prize one guinea. This competition was so close for runner up that a third place was awarded for the 'Harlequin' jumper, also an original design. It was let down only by the neck shaping and fit. I would have awarded it first place! It is by far the most fun.

What I also find interesting is the design that took second place (below), designed by a 'mere male!' This is actually the jumper I would be most likely to knit, but the 'Harlequin' jumper is still the most fetching, with it's contrasting bow neckline and belt.

Here is the pattern for the prize-winning jumper.

I hope you like it.

Theodora.

Summer knitting and crochet

We're back from our holiday in the US, and I'm being kept busy with the children on school holidays. My boy starts Year 1 in September. I am quite sad for him that his Reception year is over. It was just a whole year of pure play, with a bit of fun learning thrown in. Now it's down to the real thing.

I didn't get much knitting done on holiday, surprise, surprise. I did start a crochet hat from a 1930s Leach's Sixpenny Series booklet though. I found it on Ebay, but it was a booklet from the USA so it was much cheaper to post it there than here. It is a reproduction, but I am so pleased with it. It has a glossy cover, and the magazine is reproduced in its entirety. I shouldn't have taken it to the beach though, as it is full of sand now.

I made a start on the hat below, originally intended for raffia, I'm using crochet cotton in a teal shade.

The brim is worked back and forth, and turned up. The only thing I don't know about the booklet is the year it was published, but it looks like early 1930s to me.

I also picked up six balls of Copley's 'Excelsior' 3 ply wool in navy, that I found from a seller in the US. Which is odd, as Copley's was a British company. I have a few Copley's patterns which used Excelsior wool, so I shall have to go and find them to see if any take my fancy. 

We stayed in Kennebunkport, a pretty seaside town, so here I am outside the Clam Shack! My husband and I had a couple of evenings out, so we did the sensible thing and went thrift shopping. We bagged some bargains, including several pairs of sunglasses, a 1980s trouser suit, and a huge full-length faux fur coat! It was a challenge getting that on the aeroplane. I think I will do an outfit post on some of the things I bought. It will be fun, and ridiculous.

Dig for Victory

The kiddies had fun on the beach. My son particularly liked exploring in tide pools where he found a small lobster, a sea urchin and lots of hermit crabs.

I am on the sleeves of my Stitchcraft cardigan now. I am knitting them at the same time, as so often I get second sleeve syndrome, and this will hopefully rectify that.

I am off to Rainham Marshes with the children next week, to do some pond dipping and bug hunting!

Are you having a good summer?

Theodora.

Fashion on the Ration exhibition

I made it there eventually, and it was worth it. I didn't want to go in the school holidays, but I knew if I didn't go now, I would never get there. The Victoria line is closing at my end over August, so I will be trapped in the Stow.

Image IWM

I took my boy with me, who was a little angel, and enjoyed the whole thing.

My little fashion historian

Tank Boy

He loved seeing the Spitfire suspended from the ceiling, and a huge tank.

Image - the boy

I wore my only piece of CC41 clothing - a tailored navy jacket, with what I think are the original buttons. It is a little snug now, but looks just as good unbuttoned, and to go with it I wore my Victory Jumper and Moss Stitch beret.  I am also wearing a couple of brooches, a bakelite flower in a yellow/gold shade, and one of my knitted brooch patterns - A Posy of Violets. This is partly because they are pretty, and partly to hide the moth holes. Still, it hasn't done badly considering it is over 70 years old.

The exhibition is broken into six sections: Into Uniform, Functional Fashion, Make Do and Mend, Utility Clothing, Beauty as Duty and Peace and a New Look.

The Make Do and Mend section was a real lesson in recycling.

'Everyone should understand that it is patriotic to wear old clothes. That does not mean of course that you have to look shabby. You always look neat if you keep your clothes clean and well repaired.' (From Can I Help You on the Home Service, 10th March 1942).

There was a patchwork dress and housecoat made from scraps of fabric, lingerie made from silk maps originally used by the RAF, and lots of ingenious ways of re-invigorating a tired wardrobe. The poster that helped promote this was 'Go Through Your Wardrobe', (one of which I had to purchase).

The Utility Clothing section, which was given the name CC41, has a large and comprehensive collection of clothing from that time. Everything from underwear to a red wool overcoat, with dresses in myriad colours and fabrics.

Image IWM

Image Getty

If I hadn't known it was utility clothing, I would never have thought anything other than how chic and beautiful it was.

Beauty as Duty was a fascinating look at the lengths women had to go to, to look half decent. As makeup became scarcer and scarcer, women became increasingly desperate, and turned to homemade preparations like beetroot water to stain their lips red! I have to say this particular propoganda does rankle me a little. While the men were off fighting, women were told they just had to try and look pretty. In fact, it was their 'duty' to. Lots of cosmetics companies pushed this idea in their advertisements:

'We cannot leave men to fight this war alone. Total war makes heavy demands...The slightest hint of a drooping spirit yields a point to the enemy. Never must careless grooming reflect a 'don't care' attitude...we must never forget that good looks and good morale are the closest of good companions. Put your best face forward.' (Yardley advert, 1942).

On the knitting front, there was just one case, with some wools, patterns for knitted underwear, and some lovely fair isle knits, a matching beret and scarf.

I thoroughly enjoyed it, and the new look Imperial War Museum. I hadn't been since well before my boy was born, so it was great to see all the new galleries. The staff were on hand to give much needed expert knowledge on every exhibit in the museum. It was particularly helpful when my son asked where the bombs were put in the Spitfire, (I didn't know they sometimes carried them), and as I said this a chap jumped in and told him all about it. Marvellous.

On my knitting front, I am planning my holiday projects. We fly to the States on Monday for a week and having just had a phone call from the airline I was able to ask directly if I am allowed knitting needles and crochet hooks on board - and it was checked, and I am. Hooray!

You may have noticed I was working on a holiday piece, a crocheted beach T-shirt thingy from Inside Crochet magazine.

I went a bit crazy with my colour choices and it has turned into a bit of a beast. I have attached the front and back at the shoulders, so it looks a bit like a poncho at the moment, which would be fine if I were going to a Mexican fiesta. My husband said it would look great with a sombrero, and even better if I were holding a taco in each hand. Now I do intend to eat tacos on holiday, but perhaps not while wearing the 'Fiesta' poncho. Grrr. The original is so chic too. I might rip back the top which has closer spaced stripes and just continue with white. And do the sleeves in white.

Image Inside Crochet

I will be taking my Stitchcraft jumper, from the cover of March 1941.

I am on the second front now (ooh, sounds a bit military), just the sleeves to go. Oh, and the front bands, and the belt, and the collar. Then the sewing up. Hmm. I want to take some crochet projects too, but need some time to decide on the right ones. I might also take some yarn for projects I plan to sell at the next E17 Designers Fair in October. Some brooches and a beret or two. I will mainly be selling the patterns, but I think it might be nice to have the knitted pieces available too, for the non-knitters. I can only try.

What are your plans for the summer?

Theodora.