Fashion on the Ration exhibition

I made it there eventually, and it was worth it. I didn't want to go in the school holidays, but I knew if I didn't go now, I would never get there. The Victoria line is closing at my end over August, so I will be trapped in the Stow.

Image IWM

I took my boy with me, who was a little angel, and enjoyed the whole thing.

My little fashion historian

Tank Boy

He loved seeing the Spitfire suspended from the ceiling, and a huge tank.

Image - the boy

I wore my only piece of CC41 clothing - a tailored navy jacket, with what I think are the original buttons. It is a little snug now, but looks just as good unbuttoned, and to go with it I wore my Victory Jumper and Moss Stitch beret.  I am also wearing a couple of brooches, a bakelite flower in a yellow/gold shade, and one of my knitted brooch patterns - A Posy of Violets. This is partly because they are pretty, and partly to hide the moth holes. Still, it hasn't done badly considering it is over 70 years old.

The exhibition is broken into six sections: Into Uniform, Functional Fashion, Make Do and Mend, Utility Clothing, Beauty as Duty and Peace and a New Look.

The Make Do and Mend section was a real lesson in recycling.

'Everyone should understand that it is patriotic to wear old clothes. That does not mean of course that you have to look shabby. You always look neat if you keep your clothes clean and well repaired.' (From Can I Help You on the Home Service, 10th March 1942).

There was a patchwork dress and housecoat made from scraps of fabric, lingerie made from silk maps originally used by the RAF, and lots of ingenious ways of re-invigorating a tired wardrobe. The poster that helped promote this was 'Go Through Your Wardrobe', (one of which I had to purchase).

The Utility Clothing section, which was given the name CC41, has a large and comprehensive collection of clothing from that time. Everything from underwear to a red wool overcoat, with dresses in myriad colours and fabrics.

Image IWM

Image Getty

If I hadn't known it was utility clothing, I would never have thought anything other than how chic and beautiful it was.

Beauty as Duty was a fascinating look at the lengths women had to go to, to look half decent. As makeup became scarcer and scarcer, women became increasingly desperate, and turned to homemade preparations like beetroot water to stain their lips red! I have to say this particular propoganda does rankle me a little. While the men were off fighting, women were told they just had to try and look pretty. In fact, it was their 'duty' to. Lots of cosmetics companies pushed this idea in their advertisements:

'We cannot leave men to fight this war alone. Total war makes heavy demands...The slightest hint of a drooping spirit yields a point to the enemy. Never must careless grooming reflect a 'don't care' attitude...we must never forget that good looks and good morale are the closest of good companions. Put your best face forward.' (Yardley advert, 1942).

On the knitting front, there was just one case, with some wools, patterns for knitted underwear, and some lovely fair isle knits, a matching beret and scarf.

I thoroughly enjoyed it, and the new look Imperial War Museum. I hadn't been since well before my boy was born, so it was great to see all the new galleries. The staff were on hand to give much needed expert knowledge on every exhibit in the museum. It was particularly helpful when my son asked where the bombs were put in the Spitfire, (I didn't know they sometimes carried them), and as I said this a chap jumped in and told him all about it. Marvellous.

On my knitting front, I am planning my holiday projects. We fly to the States on Monday for a week and having just had a phone call from the airline I was able to ask directly if I am allowed knitting needles and crochet hooks on board - and it was checked, and I am. Hooray!

You may have noticed I was working on a holiday piece, a crocheted beach T-shirt thingy from Inside Crochet magazine.

I went a bit crazy with my colour choices and it has turned into a bit of a beast. I have attached the front and back at the shoulders, so it looks a bit like a poncho at the moment, which would be fine if I were going to a Mexican fiesta. My husband said it would look great with a sombrero, and even better if I were holding a taco in each hand. Now I do intend to eat tacos on holiday, but perhaps not while wearing the 'Fiesta' poncho. Grrr. The original is so chic too. I might rip back the top which has closer spaced stripes and just continue with white. And do the sleeves in white.

Image Inside Crochet

I will be taking my Stitchcraft jumper, from the cover of March 1941.

I am on the second front now (ooh, sounds a bit military), just the sleeves to go. Oh, and the front bands, and the belt, and the collar. Then the sewing up. Hmm. I want to take some crochet projects too, but need some time to decide on the right ones. I might also take some yarn for projects I plan to sell at the next E17 Designers Fair in October. Some brooches and a beret or two. I will mainly be selling the patterns, but I think it might be nice to have the knitted pieces available too, for the non-knitters. I can only try.

What are your plans for the summer?

Theodora.

Wartime magazine ads and a dangerous Ebay addiction

This week and last has been busy with children on Easter holidays, but I have still found time to do a spot of knitting, and crochet. I'm still working on Your Victory Jumper, which is going quite speedily for 3 ply wool.

I've been looking through some wartime magazines and found some very interesting material which I thought I would share.

Not a hint of coercion here - just a feeling that if you didn't do your darndest to look presentable, you would be scorned, or worse, accused of damaging the war effort. Women were expected to make an even greater effort in their appearance - 'beauty as duty'. I'd heard that phrase before, but was reminded of it by Jeni on her blog Yesterday Girl.

It is very apt now with the Fashion on the Ration exhibition on at the Imperial War Museum, which I still haven't managed to get to - yet. I'm going to try and take my mum, as she is the one who nurtured this interest in the war years in the first place. She has read so much on the period, she's practically an expert now. I went to an exhibition with her while I was still at school, and I can't for the life of me remember when it was. I think it was at the IWM . It was very influential. There was a projection on a big screen of the fashion show (in Technicolor) from the film 'The Women'. That film is now one of my favourites, for so many reasons.

I have yet to find a Tangee lipstick, but that is probably for the best, as I would no doubt wear it. Only to test the claim that it changes from orange to whatever colour will suit me. How could any woman resist that temptation? I really love the military rhetoric of the advertising of this time, it is pitched just right. I don't know how I would be capable of looking immaculate after nearly two months of night raids and no sleep though. It's an effort not to leave my slippers on to do the school run, never mind hair, makeup and a suit.

Ah, Lux. Or, rather, no Lux. The Lux company even published knitting books, I have one from 1940, with instructions on how to use it for washing woollens properly.

'...fashion is making play with vivid contrasts that look terribly dashing.' It was marvellous the way that scarcity fuelled creativity in fashion then, from fair isle knitwear to CC41 designs.

Thrifty knitting. I do have a box of scraps that I use to stuff buttons and knitted brooches. I've not quite stooped to going through bins for wool.

This has to be my favourite of the lot, and words to live by! This leads me on nicely to my not so nice problem with 'collecting'.

I have been on ebay again. I can't seem to check myself or limit my bidding - I become like a woman possessed when the clock is ticking down. Then if I do win, I seem fuelled with testosterone and punch the air, (and the ceiling) in victorious cheering. It's not nice. It brings out the thug in me. (So does driving - but that I can justify, as it is a battle of the sexes every time you get in the car. Ever seen an Audi driven by an older lady going under 30mph?)

I am going to have to cut myself off from ebay, as least for the forseeable future, or until I save up. I remember a radio programme discussing the psychology of collecting. It got me thinking about my own 'collections'. Knitting patterns and magazines, wool, vintage knitting needles, 78s, vinyl, vintage clothes, shoes, red lipstick...the list goes on. But am I a real collector? The programme defined it as someone who doesn't use the item they have bought, simply acquires it for the sole purpose of possessing it. I suppose it has to be a bit of both for me. I would like to think that I will use up the wool, and at least knit some of the patterns, but I know that it is a lot about owning something that is rare, scarce now, as it was even then, like that 1940s Stitchcraft above.

I find collecting, especially vintage items fascinating.

What do you collect, or are you just a shameless hoarder? And what do you collect?

Theodora.

Back in the world

I'm back, from nearly a month of feeling absolutely rotten.

Sickness hit me and my husband, annoyingly at almost the same time. I'd been fighting off a virus for a while, but it just wouldn't shift. Then it went and took up residence in my chest. Three courses of antibiotics, a chest X-ray, and two blood tests later, and I can breathe nicely again. It got so bad I couldn't even take my son to school. It got to the point when we thought we just weren't going to get better. It sounds so silly I know, but it got quite scary. I knew it was bad when the GP rang me to come in for an appointment.

I am never going to take my lovely lungs for granted again. I never want to feel like that again.

And, what made it worse - I couldn't even knit! I did manage a bit of crochet after a couple of weeks, though, which saved my sanity. I have finished my wavy blanket! Hooray!

It is a great length, and has kept me very cozy as I have been recuperating.

I cannot take full credit for it though - it was heavily inspired by Vanessa at Coco Rose Diaries. This is her blanket.

Her version is a little more sedate, (and beautifully photographed). I got a bit carried away with a few garish colours, but I'm just so glad I have actually finished it.

My granny stripe is almost done, too, and I have made some progress on a cushion cover (above it). At the top is my Clamshell blanket from Cherry Heart. That is still a long way from finished, but it's a fun pattern to work, and I love the colours I chose.

I have to make a confession. I have broken my New Year's Resolutions completely now - I had the overwhelming urge to cast on a new project once I started feeling better.

Can you guess what it is?

Image courtesy of V&A

It's Your Victory Jumper. I can't believe I haven't made it yet, but I thought it just the right time to get started, so that it will be ready for the 70th anniversary of VE day in May.


I'm using a vintage wool for it, too, Patons Beehive Fingering 3 ply. I'm quite excited. It's a really bright navy blue. I haven't a red or white 3 ply, but I am using Cygnet 4 ply in red, which is a very fine 4 ply, quite the match of the Beehive. I had to make do with a 4 ply in white, too, (Jaegar baby merino). I just couldn't justify buying ANY MORE WOOL. It seems to be fine, not changing the tension. Phew. I'm increasing at the moment, and will keep an eye on the width, as I don't want too much positive ease.

On a related note, I am also happy to be better for the opening of a new exhibition at the Imperial War Museum - Fashion on the Ration. It opens next week, and I'm hoping to go if not on the first day, then soon after. I think I should wear my knitted dress, as it perfectly illustrates the make-do-and-mend spirit of the war. And it is my favourite knitted.

Image courtesy of Susan Crawford

I'd hope to see some knitwear, but I haven't seen any on the website. Hmmm...

Last Sunday, I DJed at a great dance club, Mouth Full O' Hotcha. I didn't think I would be well enough, but it was SO good to get out of the house. My husband came too, which was lovely. Two inches of makeup, a headscarf to cover the 'natural', (i.e. frizzy), look of my perm, and I was ready to go. Wearing a knitted jumper of course.

It was back to the shellac. The dance instructors Paul Crook and Louise Holland run a beginners Balboa dance class at the start, then it's social dancing for the rest of the afternoon.

Paul Crook and Louise Holland

with Swing Maniac on the decks

I hadn't played 78s out for quite a while, so it was great playing for dancers again, as well as having a whirl around the dancefloor with my hubby. I was slightly taken aback when someone asked if I was actually playing my own records! It wouldn't be the first time someone has tapped me on the shoulder while I've been queueing up a record, to ask me if I can get the DJ, (a guy in my general vicinity), to play a request. And that time it was a woman.

Theodora.

A Brace of Acorns - a new brooch pattern

Photograph by R.B.

Introducing 'A Brace of Acorns'. I can't remember where I got the name for this brooch from. It makes no sense, (since they aren't grouse or pheasants), but it has a nice ring to it.

When working on the design, I was influenced by the brooches made from found materials in WW2. Most were made from wool and felt, but all sorts of odd materials were put to good use; such as cellophane, beech nuts, wood, wire and plastic cord. Clothes were being worn out through over-wear during the war, so anything that could 'cheer them up' was very welcome.

This ethos really appeals to me, as I am not one for constantly renewing my wardrobe, preferring instead to find new ways to spruce up my small collection of (vintage and new) pieces with accessories. And knitwear of course. I'm wearing a calf-length vintage cape with it, (from the 1950s I think, judging by those buttons). It's lovely and warm, as it is a wool tweed.

I originally designed this pattern for a knitting workshop I taught for Craft Guerrilla several years ago at The Rose & Crown pub in Walthamstow. I had three patterns for people to try, using different techniques, and they seemed to enjoy it. Some even finished one of the projects by the end of the night.

Photograph by T.G.W.

I made three versions, in different colourways. To purchase the pattern from Etsy, click here.

Photograph by T.G.W.

I photographed them in my garden, very simply, just against the dark stain of the fence.

Photograph by T.G.W.

They are a quick make, you can rustle one up in a couple of hours.

If you are interested in the pattern, here is what you will need:

Yarn
Small amounts of 4 ply yarn. I used 4 ply wool, and cream alpaca for the acorns, as that is all I had in that colour. It gives them a slight halo effect, which I quite like. You could try cotton as well, as it gives a crisper, more defined look.

A small piece of felt in a colour to match or tone with leaves
Brooch pin
Blunt and sharp sewing needles
Cotton thread to match felt

Needles
2 3mm double pointed needles
3.25mm straight needles

Size
Measures approximately 10cm/4 inches wide, and 8cm/3 inches long.

Tension
Tension is not crucial for this project, as the 3mm needles will make it nice and firm.   
 
To purchase the pattern from Etsy, click here.

This is the first of three brooch designs, which I will be releasing over the next few months.

I hope you like it, I do, and wear them whenever my well-loved outfits are in need of a bit of cheer.

Theodora.