My journalistic debut for In Retrospect magazine

Image rozrussell.com

I have become a 'reader' at the British Library, and a 'writer' for In Retrospect magazine.

The former feeds my need to look at vintage knitting patterns all day long. (It doesn't fulfill my need to own them, but I'm hoping that will follow, before I have to re-mortgage the house to pay for them).

The latter is something I have never done before, and it was one of the hardest things I have ever undertaken. Anyone who thinks writing is a doddle is either a natural, a genius, or has never tried. I have so much respect for good writing. Many of my friends make it look effortless, from music journalists to novelists.

Mat Keller asked me to write a piece about the music of the 1930s after hearing me play it at my house when he came to interview and photograph me for his Southern Retro series for In Retrospect magazine. He had also seen the Shellac Sisters in action at the Rivoli Ballroom several years ago. I kept jumping up and changing the song every 3 minutes, and I expect my passion for the hot dance music of the 1930s became apparent, if somewhat annoying. It was really important for me to have the music I love playing while being photographed wearing clothes from that time. (It helped with the nerves, as it was still too early for cocktails!)

Image Mat Keller for the Southern Retro Collection

Naturally I chose to wear knitteds. This is my cable jumper, a Copley's pattern from 1940, worn over my now threadbare 1940's day dress.

Image Mat Keller for the Southern Retro Collection

The hat is a design I haven't released yet, called 'Hat with a Tilted Brim'. It is crocheted in Fenella 2 ply wool, by Susan Crawford Vintage.

Image Mat Keller for the Southern Retro Collection

The wool cupboard, in its untidy state. (Did you notice the moth killer at the back? Oops.) Here I'm wearing a 30's full length floral dress, which is a favourite, and goes very well with my 'Draped Beret'.

Image Mat Keller for the Southern Retro Collection

Here I am on a typical day, lounging on the sofa, reading The Needlewoman, and deciding where to lunch (I wish). I'm wearing The Rose Jumper from A Stitch in Time Vol 1.

I got very nervous when the magazine arrived, but my article was there, as well as the Southern Retro interview. There was a lovely article by Miriam McDonald about vintage caravans, and why they make such a great holiday choice for accommodation. I also enjoyed her piece in the last issue about Jazz Age holidays, which included the hotel I long to visit - The Burgh Island Hotel.

It was grand meeting Mat, and we had a good chat about everything from babies to bakelite, and, of course, 78s and vintage knits.

Theodora.

The Shellac Sisters - a 78 rpm adventure in pictures

Jenny, Virginia, Jane and Theodora

The Shellac Sisters celebrated ten years of spinning 78s together at the end of 2014 with cocktails and dinner at The Gilbert Scott, part of the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel. I've been meaning to put up a blog post and a page about The Shellac Sisters for a long time, so here it is. 

The Shellac Sisters (with cocktails) at The Gilbert Scott Bar
Mine's a Corpse Reviver No.2.

The Shellac Sisters began DJing with gramophones in 2004, after a birthday picnic that summer when one of the sisters brought a gramophone and a handful of 78s along. It sounded great, and filled the picnic spot with sound loud enough to dance to. It didn't take long before we had all 'found' a gramophone (or two).

One should never dress down to a picnic.

It's been an amazing ten years, with gigs varied and exciting. Take a look at the page if you want to see more, but here are a few of my favourite pics from the past ten years.

On a platform in the middle of a man-made moat at

The V&A

This has to be one of my absolute favourite gigs of all time: A private party for a publishing company, which had the fantastic idea of hiring the V&A for a summer party. They flooded the outside area, and we had to jump on the platform before it got too high! We were then stranded there for the whole performance. Or, at least I thought so. Thankfully Jane had had the forethought to purchase some wellies in advance. Mine were leopard print.

Tate Britain 

I don't know who took this photo, but thank you whoever you are. My hubby doesn't dance much anymore, so this is a very precious picture. It was a Late at the Tate night, and we drew a huge crowd of Lindy Hoppers.

 I Knit Day 2007

I shouldn't have been at this gig, as it was on a Saturday when I work. It was for the wool shop I Knit in Waterloo. A whole day of knitting workshops, stalls and a talk by Jane Waller, whose 1972 book 'A Stitch In Time' I'd long coveted. It was a real turn of fate that got me here - one of those days when everything changed for me.

It wouldn't have happened if I hadn't been scratched by a cat in my garden a couple of months before. I got a really bad infection in my hand that needed surgery (Cat Scratch Fever)! I couldn't work for about six weeks, so at the last minute my mum and hubby convinced me to go along to this gig, as it wouldn't be too strenuous. That was the day that I met Susan Crawford and Jane Waller. Jane was talking about the re-issue of 'A Stitch In Time', with Susan, and when she saw The Shellac Sisters she offhandedly asked us if we would model for the book. I immediately said 'Hell yeah!' I wore my knitted dress that day, which later came to be featured in the book.

I've thought about that day many times since, and what got me there. It sounds a bit trite, but out of something awful, really awesome things can happen. Well, they did for me on this occasion.

The V&A

Another V&A shot, with both of us beaming with happiness. A very gallant gentleman kindly waded out and supplied us with refreshments of the bubbly kind, which may help explain it.

This was shot in an alleyway next to The Rose & Crown pub in Walthamstow for a newspaper article. I honestly can't remember which newspaper, though I've got a copy somewhere. I nearly didn't go, even though it was only up the road from me. It's not that I'm lazy (though I am!), just that I was feeling a bit sorry for myself. I was five months pregnant and feeling sick all the time. In retrospect (and in spite of the look on my face), I'm glad that I went.

This is from a picnic, and one of V's photographer friends took a couple of shots of us for promotion as we really needed them in the early days. I don't know why the other ladies' faces are cut off though. It wasn't me, really!

 The National Theatre

A nautical themed party for the National Theatre. We were on the roof, the deck, with views over London and the river. It was summer, an English summer, so there was a torrential downpour. Like the hats? They are all made by Jane (in the red hat), who is a milliner.

Gotta love that moat!

Theodora.

1930s Beauty Tips

I collect women's magazines, (amongst other things - wool, vintage patterns, 78s, red lipstick, shoes...). They are predominantly from the 1930s and 40s, and whenever I do a Free Pattern Friday, I get so engrossed in the ads, that I promised to share some of these with you. These are all from a 1936 edition of Home Chat magazine.

   

 

I just had to put this first - What the hell...? Did no one realise the deep hypocrisy here? Ahh, smoking. It is making a comeback though, in certain private dance clubs in London. You can't really have an authentic 1930s French cafe/nightclub atmosphere without a little smoking.

Celebrity endorsements certainly aren't new. They were very popular at this time. Only the titled were sought out by cosmetics companies though, followed by Hollywood stars. Interestingly, titled ladies were also asked to endorse knitting patterns in the 1930s. Who wouldn't want to knit a jumper that a Lady might also be knitting for herself?

The Baroness Furnivall was quite happy to promote Ponds Face Powder. I wonder if she had a crumbling mansion to keep up? Or perhaps she relished the publicity? Of course I then had to go and find some on ebay, three in fact, but didn't bid on them as I knew I would not be able to resist trying them - and that would be bad. What I find fascinating is the 'science' they were using - in the form of that huge machine, the 'colourscope', that they used to 'complexion analyse' 200 'girls'. Cosmetic companies in 1936 were already trying to blind us with science.

Deodorant, not a very exciting product, but where would we be without it? You certainly wouldn't want to dance with anyone, for fear of unpleasant odours. And considering that was the second most popular pastime in the 30s, (picture-going the first), you would make sure you used it. I love the way the other ladies are looking enviously at her dancing with the dashing moustachioed gent!

The tiny ad at the bottom right of the page certainly piqued my interest now that I too have curls that do tend to be a bother. Denman products are still very popular, but I've never seen this Curl Comb and Curl Set. I would kill for one. It's portable too - 'you can set your hair in a very few moments in the theatre or restaurant cloakroom'. I'm sure it's not as easy as it claims to be, but I'd give it a good go.

Another curling product, by Carola, claiming they 'curl while you dress'. After seeing this I dug out mine and set my hair with them. (Well, somebody else set it, after taking pity on me struggling with the tricksy things). Ladies seemed very adept at setting their own hair back then. I'm afraid I'd have gone to the hairdressers. Although I might not have been able to afford it. Here is my set with the Carolas. I had somewhere special to go, to celebrate 10 years of djing with The Shellac Sisters. 

More about this lovely evening soon.

The ad for the free knitting leaflet voucher (above), is pure wish fulfilment. I dream of going to my local wool shop and choosing from a 'wide range' of vintage patterns. Like a kid in a toy shop.

I'll leave you with Vanity Fayre's regular beauty column. This week they give you 'Four Steps to Beauty'. It's essentially a beauty salon review, but includes all the information needed to do it at home. Of course, you'd have to order the products from the salon. Surprisingly, not that much has changed in nearly 80 years. We still use mud masks, and massage, and we are still obsessed with slowing down, (or halting), the ageing process. We've just gone to more extreme lengths trying to achieve it now. 

Theodora.

Joan Crawford Dinner Party

I went to a dinner party hosted by Joan Crawford last night, and, naturally, dressed for the occasion. Of course Joan Crawford wasn't there, but she there was in spirit.

This virtual dinner party was to launch the Cooking With Joan Crawford, recipes from the kitchen of Hollywood's greatest star. It is the brainchild of Jenny Hammerton, of Silver Screen Suppers, a food blog, but a very special one as it only features recipes from the golden age of Hollywood. She is also one of my Shellac Sisters, and one of the funniest people I have ever met.

We didn't do the complete menu: We left out the appetizer and dessert, but made up for it with more cocktails (like the Cosmo cocktail).

A demure start to the evening.

The main course was absolutely delicious, the Roquefort topping on the steak was awesomely artery-clogging.

The cat got very excited.

So did we. 

I wore my Joan Crawford over a 30s satin gown (actually, a slip). My husband is wearing a cardigan I knitted for him, too.

We had a blast. I'm just glad there wasn't too much prep and cleanup involved, as the Cosmo cocktails we drank as an aperitif and digestif were lethal!

Thank you Jenny!

Hats, hats and more hats

I quite like hats.

In fact, I bloody love them. Knitted, crocheted, felt, fabric, straw...

I thought I would give some of mine an outing.

These are some of the knitted ones.

And some of the crocheted ones.

Hats to match jumpers I've knitted, a favorite vintage dress, a knitted scarf, gloves, or my winter coat.
 
The vast majority are berets. That was no surprise to me, but the colours are. I thought I had more red, but there is a distinct lack of it. So many muted colours, some brights, and a lot of black crocheted hats. I've broken my no-black rule!

The first beret I designed was back in 2002 for Cast Off, the first guerilla knitting group to spring up in London, the brainchild of Rachael Matthews of Prick Your Finger. It was made in mohair, and I called it my Raspberry Beret as I had just launched an 80s club night with my then boyfriend called Prom Night. I went through a phase of knitting nothing but mohair berets in crazy colours - and I still wear them.





















I can't find that ruby red one now, and you can just see the Raspberry Beret on the right, worn with another of my knitting (and crochet) obsessions - bows.

What is it about hats? Why don't we wear them every day now?

The Shellac Sisters always wear hats, usually supplied by the wonderful milliner Jane Fryers. The hat I'm wearing below also doubles as a weapon - I nearly took out a few eyes last time I wore it!

More Jane Fryers creations in velvet. (That's her on the far right).

It's part of the whole vintage package. You can't go full-on vintage without a hat. They finish an outfit, pull it all together.

A hat can do so much for you, it can reflect your mood. It cheers me up no end to put on a brightly coloured beret and a slick of red lipstick. Hats take me off into a fantasy world, along with 30s dance bands.

Put on a big slouchy beanie and you can hide from the world. Or pull a man's baseball cap down low and no one will recognise you. I've done that a few times. Essential for bad hair days. They can be immensely practical, but also utterly ridiculous.

Is that a beard?

In an aside, I've been meaning to get this pic up of Rosalind Russell in The Women, one of my all time favorite movies. Glamorous, and knitting. Role model? You bet!

Oh Carmen. She did kind of pull it off though. The bigger the personality, the bigger the hat.

I think that is the key. Confidence. Or just having no shame. You have to be the kind of person who thinks it's a great idea to knit a matching raspberry beret for your baby. (And a Pineapple Dance Studio style sweatshirt with matching legwarmers). Poor B.

Men and women wore hats every day until the 1960s, and some older people never stopped wearing them. My grandmother never went to mass without her hat on, and my grandfather was never seen out in public without his trilby. Most people only wear them in Winter now, just to keep warm. Sensible, but so dull. Especially if you look at the average Joe on the street. A dark coloured machine-made beanie. Yawn.

I'm so glad Autumn is here, so many more opportunities to wear hats. And inflict them on my child.

So, what is it about hats? Do you love them or loathe them?

Free pattern Friday

Not an original idea, but a great one. Lots of lovely bloggers, including Wendy at The Vintage Pattern Files, post free knitting and sewing patterns. They are usually posted on a Friday, so who am I to argue? Here's my first free pattern for you:

 

 

This was one of the first successful vintage jumpers I completed, back in 2004 (10 years ago already). I was seriously pleased with it. I didn't know much about tension then, and don't even think I tested it. The yarn I used was from The Handweavers Studio when it was still near me in Walthamstow. A soft merino, it came on little cones. The pattern called for a 2 ply - I still don't know the exact weight of the yarn. It came out very well, except it was far too short. I ended up having to pick up along the hem and adding some more ribbing.

This is something I am aware of now - my long torso, and measuring the length before I start the armhole shaping. I think most knitters have to add length to vintage jumpers now - we're taller, and broader. You just have to look at the models in patterns from the 30s, and they were slight - narrow shoulders, small busts, slender hips, like this lady:  

I love that pose, and her regal face. The column is pretty awesome too.
I modified the jumper, using the yoke of this pattern:

I liked the effect so much, I knitted one in red.

This time I added extra pattern repeats, giving a slightly more relaxed fit. I used Misti Alpaca lace.

Here is another pic of me wearing it in a more 50s beatnik style with my Shellac Sisters, at a gig we did in South London somewhere.

So that's my first free pattern, but not the last. I hope you like it.