Joan Crawford - Design For A Silk Jacket

I am very pleased to report that my design for the Joan Crawford jacket has been reformatted and is back up on both Ravelry and on Etsy.

Image courtesy of Alastair McAskill

This is a design I came up with while shooting the photographs for A Stitch in Time Volume 1 with Susan Crawford. It was heavily inspired by the silver screen glamour of the 1930s, and, in particular, the style of Joan Crawford. Her character 'Crystal' in 'The Women' was influential, along with her off-screen style throughout the 1930s. The yarn choice was easy. Pure silk. For the drape as much as for the indulgence.

Image courtesy of Alastair McAskill

I wanted to create a very feminine, but not too fussy jacket, but I also really wanted to incorporate a peplum into the design. So I decided to keep the main body in stocking stitch so as not to detract from the design details. I didn't want the peplum to taper at the back, I wanted it to be quite short and flippy, with a slightly raised waistline.

Image courtesy of Alastair McAskill

The decreases in the peplum became design features when spaced evenly and the picot edging adds interest to the hem. And I cannot resist a good bow, so that took centre stage on the petersham ribbon belt.

The shawl collar I kept quite small and neat, knit in one piece and tapered at the ends, so that it would tie gently in front.

I couldn't stick just to stocking stitch, it was just a tad too dull, so I introduced moss stitch with the bow, sleeve cuffs, shawl collar and the front bands. I decided to omit buttons altogether instead using press studs, as I knew they would draw the focus away from the shape of the garment, and the discreet design features.

Image courtesy of Alastair McAskill

And the sleeves? They had to be full and feminine, with a slight gather at the shoulder. Three quarter-length seemed just right. They are knit from the top down.

 Image courtesy of Susan Crawford

This design was first featured in the Glamour issue of knitonthenet (along with A Posy of Violets). It was Susan's first website, before she established Susan Crawford Vintage, and it showcased lots of independent designers.

Image courtesy of Susan Crawford

I have to say a huge thank you to Susan Crawford for encouraging me to release this pattern, and for the multi-sizing she did for it.

Image courtesy of Susan Crawford

Here's a bit more info on the pattern:

Materials
1500 metres of 4 ply in either silk, a silk mix, or cotton.
1 pair 3.5mm US 4 needles
1 pair 3.75mm US 5 needles
Length of petersham ribbon
8 press studs

The silk used above is discontinued now, but the red silk I bought is available from Knitshop. I have seen it done in other yarns too, (see version on this Ravelry page), which looks wonderful. I would also love to see how it looks in a silk and alpaca mix. Or bamboo. The drape would be lovely.

Sizes
34 (36, 38, 40, 42) inches

Actual bust measurement
36 (38, 40, 42, 44) inches

Tension
23 sts and 32 rows to 10cm/4 inches measured over stocking stitch with 3.5mm needles.

I hope you like it, as I can still remember throwing it across the room on two separate occasions while it was still on the needles. Ah, the design process...

Theodora.

The Jumper on the Cover - Stitchcraft October 1937

The moment I saw the cover of this Stitchcraft, I knew I wanted to knit it. I could see it was done in 'thick' wool, but it was also very flattering. Win win. Quick knitting, warm, and not too bulky. And finished in time for winter.

It is only the second long sleeved jumper I have ever knitted, so I imagine it will get lots of wear. I was so impatient to wear it, I finished sewing it up on the tube to the British Library, and changed into it while I was there. I did get a few funny looks in the loo, as there were still a couple of ends sticking out. Thankfully, I met Caroline there (The Sunny Stitcher), and she kindly sewed them in for me.

Between the rain showers this week, I got my husband to take some quick pics of the jumper in our garden.

The original yarn suggested was 'Totem' by P&B. The tension required was 16 stitches to 10cm, which meant a nice aran weight yarn. I actually had some Patons Classic Wool Worsted that I'd found in the States last year, but only 4 balls. I was sure it wouldn't be enough, but as they were 100g balls, at 192m each, I thought I'd take my chances.

And, as you can see, it was enough. I have possibly five or six metres left. I am often amazed at how economical vintage jumpers are with wool. That's why I'll keep on knitting them.

The front yoke has a very interesting diamond pattern, and is cast off straight across. The epaulettes and back yoke are knitted separately and sewn on. I have only one niggle - the sleeves are a tad too short. I should have measured them on myself before the armhole shaping. It pulls the shoulder down slightly.

I paired it with a new design called A Lacy Beret, which is an almost exact match to the shade of the jumper. I still can't tell whether it is blue or green, but I love it.

Theodora.

My journalistic debut for In Retrospect magazine

Image rozrussell.com

I have become a 'reader' at the British Library, and a 'writer' for In Retrospect magazine.

The former feeds my need to look at vintage knitting patterns all day long. (It doesn't fulfill my need to own them, but I'm hoping that will follow, before I have to re-mortgage the house to pay for them).

The latter is something I have never done before, and it was one of the hardest things I have ever undertaken. Anyone who thinks writing is a doddle is either a natural, a genius, or has never tried. I have so much respect for good writing. Many of my friends make it look effortless, from music journalists to novelists.

Mat Keller asked me to write a piece about the music of the 1930s after hearing me play it at my house when he came to interview and photograph me for his Southern Retro series for In Retrospect magazine. He had also seen the Shellac Sisters in action at the Rivoli Ballroom several years ago. I kept jumping up and changing the song every 3 minutes, and I expect my passion for the hot dance music of the 1930s became apparent, if somewhat annoying. It was really important for me to have the music I love playing while being photographed wearing clothes from that time. (It helped with the nerves, as it was still too early for cocktails!)

Image Mat Keller for the Southern Retro Collection

Naturally I chose to wear knitteds. This is my cable jumper, a Copley's pattern from 1940, worn over my now threadbare 1940's day dress.

Image Mat Keller for the Southern Retro Collection

The hat is a design I haven't released yet, called 'Hat with a Tilted Brim'. It is crocheted in Fenella 2 ply wool, by Susan Crawford Vintage.

Image Mat Keller for the Southern Retro Collection

The wool cupboard, in its untidy state. (Did you notice the moth killer at the back? Oops.) Here I'm wearing a 30's full length floral dress, which is a favourite, and goes very well with my 'Draped Beret'.

Image Mat Keller for the Southern Retro Collection

Here I am on a typical day, lounging on the sofa, reading The Needlewoman, and deciding where to lunch (I wish). I'm wearing The Rose Jumper from A Stitch in Time Vol 1.

I got very nervous when the magazine arrived, but my article was there, as well as the Southern Retro interview. There was a lovely article by Miriam McDonald about vintage caravans, and why they make such a great holiday choice for accommodation. I also enjoyed her piece in the last issue about Jazz Age holidays, which included the hotel I long to visit - The Burgh Island Hotel.

It was grand meeting Mat, and we had a good chat about everything from babies to bakelite, and, of course, 78s and vintage knits.

Theodora.

New Hat Designs on Etsy

With the E17 Autumn Designers' Market coming up in early October, I have been busy making hats and brooches to sell.

I have now put up some more patterns on Etsy. Here's the link.

 Pom Pom Hat

 Moss Stitch Beret

A Draped Beret

I was a bit nervous about A Draped Beret as it is my first design for a beret in crochet, but I have been rigorous with the testing, and the checking of the pattern (over and over), and it is ready.

My little shop is starting to take shape, I just need to add a few more brooch patterns, and I'll be happy with it.

Have a look, and let me know what you think. (If there are glaring errors, eek)!

We had another Mixtape last night, so I need to lie down now and try to recover from the wine.

Theodora.

Getting ready for the E17 Art Trail, and a trip to Minsmere

I've been knitting furiously over the past week, in preparation for the E17 Art Trail. Testing my hat patterns (again), even taking them away on a little holiday to finish. This sounds like it was an effort. It most certainly was not. I always take knitting away with me, (in fact I take it almost everywhere with me). I aim to always be knitting furiously, when life permits.

We were kindly offered a cottage in Suffolk for a few days over half-term by friends, so we jumped at the chance. It was right near Minsmere RSPB reserve, where Springwatch is based this year. My boy has a true love of nature, nurtured by us, and it was a joy to be with him as he experienced all the beauty of Minsmere. We saw an adder, bearded tits, avocets, and sand martins swooping low just past our faces. We even heard the boom of a bittern. We were lucky enough to have two sitings of bitterns. Miss B was more interested in the ladybird backpack the reserve gave her than the bittern flying directly over her head!

We had a day out in Aldeburgh, where we found the loveliest diner I've ever seen, and I've been to America and everything! Delphine's (it has no website), was a little slice of 50s kitsch, but so beautifully done, right down to the condiment jars. It was a tiny place but we grabbed a booth by the window.

Formica table tops, mint green walls, and a mirrored ceiling!

The most crucial thing for me, and the American hubby, was the food. It was up to the standard of the decor, and that is high praise indeed.

We ordered apple juice for the children, and it came in cute little bottles with straws.

I found a vintage fair in Snape Maltings, so I went a bit embroidery crazy! A cushion cover,

an enormous tea cozy, and a couple of table cloths. I also picked up an entire box of 1930s embroidery transfers. I didn't really want the whole box, but it was the end of the day, it was raining, and the woman selling them said she didn't want to take them home. I'm not complaining, there are some crinoline ladies in there! I could seriously get into embroidery, if I didn't need to sleep at night.

I also saw some 'china' I had never come across before called Melmex. It is a type of plastic from the 1960s (I think). I confined myself to just one, in this pastel pink. I rather fancied a lime green one too, and now I regret not buying it.

Fun was had on the beach collecting rocks, and them throwing them into the sea.

I went to the International Club again last Saturday night with my knitting buddy Simone. We met in Zedel's for dinner first and were pleasantly surprised when the staff gave us a complimentary glass of bubbly. It was because we were wearing hats!

Simone had been to Fashion on the Ration earlier that day, so was wearing a 1940s ensemble, consisting of a CC41 dress and maroon hat.

Photo by Wozza

I wore a cotton jumper I made from a Beehive Wool String pattern book, named 'Interlude'.

The hat I wore is a beret I designed because I just couldn't find the right 1930s pattern for one. It is crocheted, in navy cotton to match the jumper, and because I love navy. Unimaginatively named 'A Draped Beret', I designed it in two sizes, (21 inches and 22 - 23 inches). It also comes in three 'depths', to be worn with more or less drape depending on your personal preference. The beret above is the middle depth.

This version in white has the least depth, which gives it a more nautical look. I will be releasing this pattern at the E17 Art Trail on Friday if I can get a half decent photo of it by then.

Theodora.

E17 Art Trail

It's nearly the start of the E17 Art Trail in Walthamstow. For the first time since I've lived here, I am taking part. I'm very excited about it, but also quite nervous. My good friend Helen Reed invited me to join her for 'A Life of Skein'. We're venue number 11 on the programme.

 Photo courtesy of The Wool Kitchen

Photo courtesy of The Wool Kitchen

We will be hosting it over two days. On Friday 5th June from 10am - 3pm, and Sunday 7th June from 11am - 5pm. our aim is to 'Bring you knitting, crochet and spinning for knit and chat in the garden.'

Helen will be showcasing her hand-dyed yarns, of which she has many! In all weights, from lace weight to super chunky (above), and in a myriad of colours, solid and variegated.

I'm using a 2 ply Exmoor Blue Faced Leicester for my Moss Stitch Beret, which I will release as a pattern for the Art Trail.

It's lovely wool to knit with, super soft and fluffy.

Photo by Wozza

The Moss Stitch Beret in 4 ply alpaca.

This version is in an aran weight silk and alpaca blend.

Photo by Mike D

This is a pattern I had almost forgotten about: Pom Pom Beret. I previously released it as a kit with Abstract yarn shop in Walthamstow village, run by Alessandra Rigillo.

I'm using one of Helen's 'urban hand-dyed' yarns for this one: Another Blue Faced Leicester in an aran weight, so it knits up nice and quickly. It is a super easy pattern, perfect for a beginner. It uses only the knit stitch (garter stitch), with some decreases to shape the top. It has to have pom poms - the bigger, the better.

If you want to see more of her hand dyes, take a peek here.

Photo by Mike D

I seem to be big on the hat knitting. Hmm. Here's my 'Beret for Everyday'. This was done in Excelana, which is - you guessed it - Exmoor Blue Faced Leicester! This pattern will be available at the Art Trail, too.

Let's hope lots of people turn up, or we'll be getting through a lot of tea and cakes ourselves! If you are in Walthamstow, please do come and join us and say, 'Hello'. We aren't bitchin' (like in the photo below), we're just knitting nerds. But then, if you read this blog, you'll know that about me.

We won't be dressed like this, either. There will be more wool. A lot more. I hope it's not too warm out.

Theodora.

A Brace of Acorns - a new brooch pattern

Photograph by R.B.

Introducing 'A Brace of Acorns'. I can't remember where I got the name for this brooch from. It makes no sense, (since they aren't grouse or pheasants), but it has a nice ring to it.

When working on the design, I was influenced by the brooches made from found materials in WW2. Most were made from wool and felt, but all sorts of odd materials were put to good use; such as cellophane, beech nuts, wood, wire and plastic cord. Clothes were being worn out through over-wear during the war, so anything that could 'cheer them up' was very welcome.

This ethos really appeals to me, as I am not one for constantly renewing my wardrobe, preferring instead to find new ways to spruce up my small collection of (vintage and new) pieces with accessories. And knitwear of course. I'm wearing a calf-length vintage cape with it, (from the 1950s I think, judging by those buttons). It's lovely and warm, as it is a wool tweed.

I originally designed this pattern for a knitting workshop I taught for Craft Guerrilla several years ago at The Rose & Crown pub in Walthamstow. I had three patterns for people to try, using different techniques, and they seemed to enjoy it. Some even finished one of the projects by the end of the night.

Photograph by T.G.W.

I made three versions, in different colourways. To purchase the pattern from Etsy, click here.

Photograph by T.G.W.

I photographed them in my garden, very simply, just against the dark stain of the fence.

Photograph by T.G.W.

They are a quick make, you can rustle one up in a couple of hours.

If you are interested in the pattern, here is what you will need:

Yarn
Small amounts of 4 ply yarn. I used 4 ply wool, and cream alpaca for the acorns, as that is all I had in that colour. It gives them a slight halo effect, which I quite like. You could try cotton as well, as it gives a crisper, more defined look.

A small piece of felt in a colour to match or tone with leaves
Brooch pin
Blunt and sharp sewing needles
Cotton thread to match felt

Needles
2 3mm double pointed needles
3.25mm straight needles

Size
Measures approximately 10cm/4 inches wide, and 8cm/3 inches long.

Tension
Tension is not crucial for this project, as the 3mm needles will make it nice and firm.   
 
To purchase the pattern from Etsy, click here.

This is the first of three brooch designs, which I will be releasing over the next few months.

I hope you like it, I do, and wear them whenever my well-loved outfits are in need of a bit of cheer.

Theodora.

A Beret for Everyday - my very first hat pattern

It's the hat I grab when I am running out of the house and don't know which hat to grab. It's a go-with-everything beret, and it is one of my favorites.

Photograph by R.B.

It won't win any prizes for the most exciting stitch pattern, but it is a great shape. And that is so important to me. Not too 'big'. Or floppy. It is close fitting, reminiscent of an early 1930s beret - but I can still get my hair into it if it starts to rain.

This is the first of a small collection of hats I have designed in recent months.

Photograph by R.B.

Photograph by R.B.

Photograph by Mike D.

Here it is worn with the open seam creating an alluring V-shape over the eye.

This is a design I first did back in 2006. I originally knitted it in an unknown cream wool, and scribbled down the pattern in my now battered old notebook.

Photograph by Mike D.

I wore it when I photographed some designs back in 2011, as it didn't detract from the jumper.

For this one, I've used Excelana 4 ply wool, in shade Saharan Sand. I just had one ball of it, from the photo shoot of A Stitch In Time Volume 2.

Image from Stitch In Time Vol 2

It's the remainder of this ball in fact! I hate waste.

Here's a bit more info if you are interested in purchasing the pattern:

Knit flat on two needles, from the bottom up. I used a thumb cast on method with one needle to give a neat ridged edge which seems to mirror garter stitch.

Yarn
One ball Excelana 4 ply Shade Saharan Sand (159m)

Needles
2.75mm needles
3.75mm needles

Tension
24 sts and 28 rows = 10cms / 4ins measured over stocking stitch using 3.75mm needles.

Size
To fit 21 - 23 inch head.

My head measurement is 22 inches, and it fits quite snugly. I would recommend using 3mm needles for the garter stitch brim if your head is 23 inches or more. But as with all knitted hats, I find it stretches slightly as you wear it.

It is available on Etsy here, if you fancy giving it a go.

Since rediscovering the social media world after years of self-imposed exile, I've become obsessed with it, taking pics of myself on my phone and posting them on Facebook and Instagram. Usually after too many glasses of wine, in the kitchen, next to the back door. (Ooh, the glamour).

Do you spy my Brace Of Acorns brooch? This is a little brooch I designed some years ago for a workshop I taught for Craft Guerrilla, along with my Posy of Violets. I'll be offering this soon too, in two colourways.

I'm also starting to offer a few vintage patterns from my collection on Etsy.

I really hope you like my first beret pattern. I'm very nervous about it, but I've got to try!

Theodora.