Free Pattern Friday - Jumper in Thick Wool and her little friend

A free pattern for a 'Jumper in Thick Wool' from a 1936 edition of Home Notes. It uses a chunky weight yarn, which at first I thought was most unusual, until I had a flick through some other patterns from that era.

There was an explosion of knitting patterns released in the 1930s, and with it came a huge array of yarns to go with them. When one thinks about knitwear from the 1930s and 40s, it is 3 ply that springs to mind. That is not strictly the case though. I was reminded of this by a good knitting pal, Simone, who has a collection of vintage knitting patterns that I am in awe of (although, I may get a peek at them someday soon). Yarns named Kwiknit, Speedknit, and Zephyr, just in case you had any doubts as to their claims. Aran or worsted weight yarns were really quite popular, and chunky and super-chunky yarns were used predominantly for jackets to achieve that 1940's silhouette, like the Box Coat from A Stitch in Time vol 2.

This is the first time I have attempted a vintage jumper in this thickness, though. I dived in on a whim, but I am sorely lacking in chunky weight wool, being more of a 3 and 4 ply gal. I did manage to dig out four balls of - wait for it - Robin Chunky ACRYLIC. 100% acrylic. I was convinced it would turn out to be a beast of a thing, but I have to admit, it didn't behave at all badly.

(Mostly phone pics, I'm afraid.)

I went down a needle size to 7mm, to achieve the required tension, but now wish I hadn't, as it could have done with a tad more ease. It does not have the same fit as the original, but then again, I thought that looked a little too shapeless.

This pic was taken by my 5 year old son!

This was a very quick knit - it took just over a week to complete. Bear in mind that I only really knit in the evening for about an hour or two. Sewing up was a lot quicker, too. All in all, it probably took about 15 hours. And, another thing in acrylic's favour: it took just 4 balls, at 160m each, which came to a grand total of £6.40. Bought at Walthamstow market. The cheapest jumper EVER. But hopefully not in a bad way.

If you are going to attempt this, take care when knitting the sleeves. I came unstuck on the right sleeve and had to re-knit it from the beginning as I had cast on 11 sts after the turn-back cuff at the wrong side, putting the cuff at the back! The armhole depth was pleasingly deeper than I expected, too: usually it is six inches and you can't lift your arms, but this is about seven and a half. The neck is deeper, too, which means I can get it over my head without undoing the buttons.

Camera pic by hubby

If I were to knit it again, I would certainly use wool, or a wool mix. I have already swatched it in Drops Nepal (aran/worsted weight), which I used for Quick Work In Thick Wool. It will work, but only if I go up a needle size to 8mm, even 9mm, and then it will be snug, and possibly too open and airy. Hmm. But I cannot buy more wool!

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I have plenty to be getting on with. My (or, rather) Your Victory Jumper is coming along nicely, but I musn't rest on my laurels, or I'll never finish it.

I haven't had much time this week. My little girl has been off nursery with chicken pox, poor little mite. Hence my hasty pics. She will be better for Easter, but my son might have it by then!

Here is the free pattern, along with its friend on the same page: 'Jumper with a Turreted collar'.

I hope you have fun with them.

Theodora.

Out and about in my London

Last week I was feeling more myself again, and the relief that came with it made me get off my butt and go out dancing on Monday, and to Spitalfields market on Thursday. (Let's not talk about this week).

Monday is Balboa night here in London, at least in my London. Swing at the Blueberry is run by amazing Balboa teachers - Natasha Hall and Paul Crook. I, and many others long to emulate their smooth, cool, understated style. On Monday Natasha was alone, as Paul was taken ill at the last minute, (probably that dreaded lurgy)! Natasha switched between male leading and female follower steps effortlessly, and taught us some sweet variations on the basic moves, which I have been practising a bit since. It felt so good to be out and dancing, (and having a couple of beers didn't hurt my mood either).

On Thursday I ventured to Spitalfields market, as it was antique day. I say ventured, it is only a short train ride away, I'm just quite lazy. I got there around 10am, and saw lots of stall holders still setting up, then realized they were the traders selling new goods, so I toodled over to the other side, where the seasoned antique dealers were already sipping coffee and chatting to each other amiably, having already set up their wares. It is thanks to the Sunny Stitcher that I remembered about the antiques on a Thursday, and I'm pleased to report that it was quite a fruitful trip. I needed some buttons for a couple of jumpers, and found some 1930s ones.

Spurred on by my find, I even managed to finish this jumper, that had been languishing patiently in a drawer. I'm glad I didn't just use any old buttons.

It is from volume 2 of A Stitch in Time, Quick Work In Thick Wool. I have to say it was pretty quick, even though I cast on about 3 years ago!

I used Drops Nepal, a wool and alpaca blend.

When I think of the knitting designs of the 1930s, I immediately think of 3 ply wool, not aran, which is used in the above design, and never chunky weight. That is until I found this design from a 1936 edition of Home Notes magazine.

Knit on No.1 needles, (old English), 7.5mm metric. I used 7mm which gave me the reqiured 3 sts to the inch. Called 'Jumper in Thick Wool', it was indeed a very quick knit. I started it the middle of last week, and I'm sewing it up now. I don't think I will knit the belt, but use a leather one instead, to cut down on the bulkiness. I will follow up with the finished garment in my next post.

Here are the rest of the goodies I found. The buttons are for the jumper above, with the magazine it is from beneath it. (That wasn't found at Spitalfields). A couple of patterns for tea cozies, and two late 40s jumper patterns.

You can just see In Retrospect magazine poking out underneath them all, the new vintage magazine by Matt Keller. It's the second issue, and I was happy to see an article on vintage knitting in it. Let's hope there will be more of those in the future!

I had a bit of a splurge in Collectif, while I was in Spitalfields, but I felt I deserved it after being ill for so long. And they are for dancing. I've been wanting to try on some Miss L-Fire shoes for a while, as friends had been raving about them. They were in the sale, otherwise I wouldn't have entertained them. I have some very similar, from Topshop years ago, but they have a stiletto heel, so completely different.

I have at last photographed my Starring Stripes jumper. I wore it when I to Spitalfields, with my cream knitted turban, but failed to get a photo of me wearing either.

The colours aren't quite as they are in real life, but I couldn't seem to get the right setting on my camera. They are an almost perfect match to the original colours of the model in the pattern though, which I am very pleased about.

Thanks again to Liz from zilredloh for sharing this wonderful pattern with us.

Back to my sewing up!

Theodora.

Free Pattern Friday - Herringbone Lace Turban

I'm changing my name to Chesty LaRue. I'm still fighting this chest infection with the help of yet more penicillin. I'm not knocking it. I'm not anti antibiotics, like so many people, but they have probably never really needed them to like, you know, save their actual lives. There, rant over. I have a story about how antibiotics did actually save my life once, but I'll bore you with that another time. (It does have a knitting connection - a major one).

This post is about knitting, as it should be. A knitted turban to be precise. After seeing a pattern for a vintage 1940s turban on The Vintage Pattern Files, and knitting it, I thought I would do another in a lacy stitch. As I didn't do a free pattern for February - (did I tell you I was ill?) - it is a bit overdue.

Photograph by Shanthi Sivanesan

The yarn I used is called Semilla, by BC Garn. I picked it up at Nest a while ago, for no particular project in mind, I just couldn't resist the shade. It only took two balls, as the meterage is very generous for a DK weight at 160m to 50g. I think it was under a fiver too. It is 100% organic wool, and has a good firm twist to it. Any DK weight yarn would work though. The original vintage turban pattern is done in 3 ply, but I just couldn't face all that knitting, and actually knit the vintage one in aran weight wool, which was a super quick knit. This one took a little longer, but still a lot quicker than with 3 or 4 ply.

I am very happy with it, as it goes with my 1940s dress and Copleys cable knit jumper. The pattern has a lot of stretch width-wise which is what I wanted, to cover my ears on a cold day.

Photograph by Shanthi Sivanesan

The photos were taken by my good friend, Shanthi, whom I've known since I was 18. She's always had a keen eye when it comes to taking a good pic, so I went over to her place, and we went out in the garden, It was cold sunny day, perfect weather.

She captured the colours perfectly.

Photograph by Shanthi Sivanesan

I have put the pattern on a new page, called 'Free knitting patterns'. You can find it under the banner at the top of the page, or here.

Photograph by Shanthi Sivanesan

Photograph by Shanthi Sivanesan

Photograph by Shanthi Sivanesan

We had a bit of fun with the styling.

I found my old Doc Martens recently, in the loft at my mum and dad's, so I've been living in them. I've always loved clashing colours and fabrics, so teaming my 40s dress with a faux leopard print jacket felt right. I have to admit I get slightly bored of dressing vintage head to toe, (sorry)! It's good to grunge it up a bit.

I have been listening to a lot of music from the 90s again, as my husband and I have just launched a night at our local here in Walthamstow. It's called Mixtape, and we play a mix of 80s and 90s stuff. This probably explains my fashion choices right now.

I really enjoyed rummaging in the loft for my old clothes from back then. I even found a hand knitted cardigan, in acrylic, (originally from a charity shop, in the days before I could knit).

You can just about see it here, with lace panels down the front. I'm with my good pal Nese, we grew up near each other in Norf' London. Nese is convinced she, (and I), invented the selfie, in 1992, before it even had a name. But Shanthi has confirmed that it was in fact Madonna, back in '85. And of course with that Polaroid in Desperately Seeking Susan. These are the issues that matter to us.

Can't beat a bit of red vinyl!

Theodora.

Back in the world

I'm back, from nearly a month of feeling absolutely rotten.

Sickness hit me and my husband, annoyingly at almost the same time. I'd been fighting off a virus for a while, but it just wouldn't shift. Then it went and took up residence in my chest. Three courses of antibiotics, a chest X-ray, and two blood tests later, and I can breathe nicely again. It got so bad I couldn't even take my son to school. It got to the point when we thought we just weren't going to get better. It sounds so silly I know, but it got quite scary. I knew it was bad when the GP rang me to come in for an appointment.

I am never going to take my lovely lungs for granted again. I never want to feel like that again.

And, what made it worse - I couldn't even knit! I did manage a bit of crochet after a couple of weeks, though, which saved my sanity. I have finished my wavy blanket! Hooray!

It is a great length, and has kept me very cozy as I have been recuperating.

I cannot take full credit for it though - it was heavily inspired by Vanessa at Coco Rose Diaries. This is her blanket.

Her version is a little more sedate, (and beautifully photographed). I got a bit carried away with a few garish colours, but I'm just so glad I have actually finished it.

My granny stripe is almost done, too, and I have made some progress on a cushion cover (above it). At the top is my Clamshell blanket from Cherry Heart. That is still a long way from finished, but it's a fun pattern to work, and I love the colours I chose.

I have to make a confession. I have broken my New Year's Resolutions completely now - I had the overwhelming urge to cast on a new project once I started feeling better.

Can you guess what it is?

Image courtesy of V&A

It's Your Victory Jumper. I can't believe I haven't made it yet, but I thought it just the right time to get started, so that it will be ready for the 70th anniversary of VE day in May.


I'm using a vintage wool for it, too, Patons Beehive Fingering 3 ply. I'm quite excited. It's a really bright navy blue. I haven't a red or white 3 ply, but I am using Cygnet 4 ply in red, which is a very fine 4 ply, quite the match of the Beehive. I had to make do with a 4 ply in white, too, (Jaegar baby merino). I just couldn't justify buying ANY MORE WOOL. It seems to be fine, not changing the tension. Phew. I'm increasing at the moment, and will keep an eye on the width, as I don't want too much positive ease.

On a related note, I am also happy to be better for the opening of a new exhibition at the Imperial War Museum - Fashion on the Ration. It opens next week, and I'm hoping to go if not on the first day, then soon after. I think I should wear my knitted dress, as it perfectly illustrates the make-do-and-mend spirit of the war. And it is my favourite knitted.

Image courtesy of Susan Crawford

I'd hope to see some knitwear, but I haven't seen any on the website. Hmmm...

Last Sunday, I DJed at a great dance club, Mouth Full O' Hotcha. I didn't think I would be well enough, but it was SO good to get out of the house. My husband came too, which was lovely. Two inches of makeup, a headscarf to cover the 'natural', (i.e. frizzy), look of my perm, and I was ready to go. Wearing a knitted jumper of course.

It was back to the shellac. The dance instructors Paul Crook and Louise Holland run a beginners Balboa dance class at the start, then it's social dancing for the rest of the afternoon.

Paul Crook and Louise Holland

with Swing Maniac on the decks

I hadn't played 78s out for quite a while, so it was great playing for dancers again, as well as having a whirl around the dancefloor with my hubby. I was slightly taken aback when someone asked if I was actually playing my own records! It wouldn't be the first time someone has tapped me on the shoulder while I've been queueing up a record, to ask me if I can get the DJ, (a guy in my general vicinity), to play a request. And that time it was a woman.

Theodora.

Free Pattern Friday - Polka-Dot Sweater and a pair of cozy mitts

I received some lovely pattern books for Christmas from my in-laws, so in the same spirit of giving I thought I would share a couple of the patterns with you.

It is from 'Woman's Day Knitting Annual', an American publication from 1948. It is the cover sweater. I chose it chiefly because of that, as it is a large image, and it is in colour. The images for the rest of the garments are all tiny and in black and white. I don't usually post patterns that are this 'new', preferring the older ones, but it is so pretty, I had to. It is offered in three sizes, although the largest is still only a 36 inch bust! It can be easily be upsized if you use a 4 ply or even d.k. yarn and larger needles.

I couldn't resist throwing in a pair of mitts too, considering the time of year. They are knit in 'worsted' weight wool. I thought it meant a d.k. weight, but not going by the tension - 4 sts to the inch. I was slightly baffled, until I read the pattern properly. 'Use double strand throughout'. So it will work with an aran weight yarn.

I love cables, but haven't made much using them. I've done a 1940s jacket, (which I have no pics of), and a Copleys jumper from 1940.

 

I also have a pair of mitts, which I made last winter, from Sarah Dallas's 'Vintage Knits'. 

I added a few lazy daisies with some vintage embroidery wools I found in a charity shop. I love the colour combination - grey with dark and light coral. Yummy. And they're warm.

The next cable project I want to tackle is Tri-Cable Stitch Jumper. I just need to pick a yarn from the ever growing collection. I've already broken one of my resolutions - I ordered more wool! It was sale wool though, so not too naughty. I'll show it off when it arrives. It is coming from the States with my in-laws at half term. I think I want to use Excelana for it, I have some Sweet Chestnut, but I also want to use that shade for my skirt pattern. Decisions, decisions.

Here are those patterns:

And the mittens:

Theodora.

A Brace of Acorns - a new brooch pattern

Photograph by R.B.

Introducing 'A Brace of Acorns'. I can't remember where I got the name for this brooch from. It makes no sense, (since they aren't grouse or pheasants), but it has a nice ring to it.

When working on the design, I was influenced by the brooches made from found materials in WW2. Most were made from wool and felt, but all sorts of odd materials were put to good use; such as cellophane, beech nuts, wood, wire and plastic cord. Clothes were being worn out through over-wear during the war, so anything that could 'cheer them up' was very welcome.

This ethos really appeals to me, as I am not one for constantly renewing my wardrobe, preferring instead to find new ways to spruce up my small collection of (vintage and new) pieces with accessories. And knitwear of course. I'm wearing a calf-length vintage cape with it, (from the 1950s I think, judging by those buttons). It's lovely and warm, as it is a wool tweed.

I originally designed this pattern for a knitting workshop I taught for Craft Guerrilla several years ago at The Rose & Crown pub in Walthamstow. I had three patterns for people to try, using different techniques, and they seemed to enjoy it. Some even finished one of the projects by the end of the night.

Photograph by T.G.W.

I made three versions, in different colourways. To purchase the pattern from Etsy, click here.

Photograph by T.G.W.

I photographed them in my garden, very simply, just against the dark stain of the fence.

Photograph by T.G.W.

They are a quick make, you can rustle one up in a couple of hours.

If you are interested in the pattern, here is what you will need:

Yarn
Small amounts of 4 ply yarn. I used 4 ply wool, and cream alpaca for the acorns, as that is all I had in that colour. It gives them a slight halo effect, which I quite like. You could try cotton as well, as it gives a crisper, more defined look.

A small piece of felt in a colour to match or tone with leaves
Brooch pin
Blunt and sharp sewing needles
Cotton thread to match felt

Needles
2 3mm double pointed needles
3.25mm straight needles

Size
Measures approximately 10cm/4 inches wide, and 8cm/3 inches long.

Tension
Tension is not crucial for this project, as the 3mm needles will make it nice and firm.   
 
To purchase the pattern from Etsy, click here.

This is the first of three brooch designs, which I will be releasing over the next few months.

I hope you like it, I do, and wear them whenever my well-loved outfits are in need of a bit of cheer.

Theodora.