Thursday, 23 October 2014

Free Pattern Friday - more Home Chat

I picked up a few more Home Chat mags recently, so thought I would share one of the patterns with you.

This one is from January 1935. It looks at first glance like a cardigan, but it is actually a jumper.

It's such a sweet magazine, with lots of tips and advertisements for products that don't exist anymore. And some articles that are still depressingly relevant today (weight loss products, for example). I will have to do a post on all these other things in the magazine soon, they're just too interesting to miss out.



You also get "A Pouffe Made in Crochet"!

Hope you like it.

Theodora.

Friday, 17 October 2014

Hats, hats and more hats

I quite like hats.

In fact, I bloody love them. Knitted, crocheted, felt, fabric, straw...

I thought I would give some of mine an outing.


These are some of the knitted ones.


And some of the crocheted ones.



Hats to match jumpers I've knitted, a favorite vintage dress, a knitted scarf, gloves, or my winter coat.
 
The vast majority are berets. That was no surprise to me, but the colours are. I thought I had more red, but there is a distinct lack of it. So many muted colours, some brights, and a lot of black crocheted hats. I've broken my no-black rule!

The first beret I designed was back in 2002 for Cast Off, the first guerilla knitting group to spring up in London, the brainchild of Rachael Matthews of Prick Your Finger. It was made in mohair, and I called it my Raspberry Beret as I had just launched an 80s club night with my then boyfriend called Prom Night. I went through a phase of knitting nothing but mohair berets in crazy colours - and I still wear them.





















I can't find that ruby red one now, and you can just see the Raspberry Beret on the right, worn with another of my knitting (and crochet) obsessions - bows.

What is it about hats? Why don't we wear them every day now?

The Shellac Sisters always wear hats, usually supplied by the wonderful milliner Jane Fryers. The hat I'm wearing below also doubles as a weapon - I nearly took out a few eyes last time I wore it!





More Jane Fryers creations in velvet. (That's her on the far right).

It's part of the whole vintage package. You can't go full-on vintage without a hat. They finish an outfit, pull it all together.

A hat can do so much for you, it can reflect your mood. It cheers me up no end to put on a brightly coloured beret and a slick of red lipstick. Hats take me off into a fantasy world, along with 30s dance bands.

Put on a big slouchy beanie and you can hide from the world. Or pull a man's baseball cap down low and no one will recognise you. I've done that a few times. Essential for bad hair days. They can be immensely practical, but also utterly ridiculous.


Is that a beard?

In an aside, I've been meaning to get this pic up of Rosalind Russell in The Women, one of my all time favorite movies. Glamorous, and knitting. Role model? You bet!




Oh Carmen. She did kind of pull it off though. The bigger the personality, the bigger the hat.

I think that is the key. Confidence. Or just having no shame. You have to be the kind of person who thinks it's a great idea to knit a matching raspberry beret for your baby. (And a Pineapple Dance Studio style sweatshirt with matching legwarmers). Poor B.



Men and women wore hats every day until the 1960s, and some older people never stopped wearing them. My grandmother never went to mass without her hat on, and my grandfather was never seen out in public without his trilby. Most people only wear them in Winter now, just to keep warm. Sensible, but so dull. Especially if you look at the average Joe on the street. A dark coloured machine-made beanie. Yawn.

I'm so glad Autumn is here, so many more opportunities to wear hats. And inflict them on my child.

So, what is it about hats? Do you love them or loathe them?

Sunday, 12 October 2014

The Perfect Permanent

Ah, how I've missed my curls, and now I have them back!
It must be more than five years since my last one, I don't know how I've gone so long without one. Oh, yes I do - I've had children.


(Please excuse the phone pics, taken by me).

My dad is a ladies' hairdresser, so perms are nothing new to me - I've neutralised many in my time. He trained in the sixties, when sets were de rigeur, so perms were required to hold that set in all week. (Sometimes two)! His training actually included finger waving, and pin curling, not because those styles were popular then, but to loosen up the hands, and make the fingers more nimble. So I am doubly grateful to him, not only can he perm, but he can do awesome finger waves and pin curls.

The style above has not been waved, it is pretty much untouched since the perm the day before. I popped a few pin curls in the front, but the wave on top was there.

Below is pin curled, the ends slightly damp, which took about 10 minutes, then left in all day. When I took them out I just put my fingers through it and manipulated it into the shape I wanted.


I had my first perm aged 11. Sounds precocious, huh? I went off to the salon he was working in, in St. John's Wood High Street with a picture that I had chosen with mum, of a nice layered style, suitable for my long, fine, poker straight hair. When he sat me in the chair, I saw a glint in his eye, then he asked me with a little laugh - 'Shall we do a perm?'

I was about to start at secondary school - how cool would I look?

Poodle. Perm. But that was THE perm of the 80s, so I WAS cool. My mum freaked when we got home, but I loved it, even though the ends were all frizzy and about three shades lighter than the roots. After that first one, I had more. I blame Whitney Houston.


I actually really enjoyed the process this time. My life is so sad.


Here's my lovely dad.


Applying the lotion,


Hmm, the fumes from the perm lotion...

As you can see those perm curlers are the hardcore, old lady ones. We insiders don't use the phrase 'body wave', or use those bendy sponge curlers. But seriously, if you want a proper perm, one that you can set easily yourself, (relatively), one that won't drop out, you've got to ask for an 'old lady perm'. And if you have hair bob length or longer, the hairdresser has to apply the perm lotion to each section as it's being wound, as it won't penetrate to the ends of the hair once it has been wound, and you will end up with straight ends. I've had that before.

And the rinsing, don't get me started on the rinsing! At least ten minutes, especially for that length hair. And the neutraliser has to go on the ends too, after the curlers come out, and be left on a bit longer.

This is what it looks like straight after.


The waves are there, and so easy to manipulate when damp, you don't even need setting lotion.


I let it dry naturally. It does lighten the rest of your hair, especially if it is already coloured, but hey-ho.


Kind of frizzy, but good and curly.

And this is what can be created.


 Unfortunately, not by me.


This amazing set was the work of Claire Hair, who lives near me. She now has her own salon in Wood Street. Yay Claire!


This was all done with pin curls, placed at perfect angles. I've never been able to achieve this.

I'll leave you with another great set done by dad, for one of my dance nights out.
 

Very early 30s. Set with perm rollers and setting lotion, and waved with long metal section clips.

I think I've waffled on about perms for quite long enough, but getting the right one is very important - if you're vintage obsessed that is.

Friday, 10 October 2014

KNITWEAR Chanel to Westwood

I recently went along to the Fashion & Textile museum in London for an exhibition devoted to knitwear. KNITWEAR Chanel to Westwood. How could I not go?


As the title suggests, it spans a good century's worth of knitwear. It was wonderful to see the jersey suits by Chanel, but my faves were of course the hand knits of the 30s and 40s.

I couldn't take any pics in there, and there aren't very many on the website, but the main garments on display from those decades were predominantly fair isles. Well worth a visit just for that.

One piece that has really stayed with me though was a knitting bag, a sausage shape with multicoloured crochet circle sides. The main part was completely covered in embroidered lazy daisies in lots of bright cheery colours. Exquisite. That bag for me completely sums up the make do and mend ethos, something so beautiful made despite the tight restrictions on wool

In other news, I am busily working away on new designs for hats, which are my most favorite thing in the world to knit and crochet.

Here is a peak at just two.

The jumper that I'm wearing with this one is a firm favorite too, and will be appearing in it's own post soon.
 Excuse the lame selfie!

Thursday, 2 October 2014

Free pattern Friday

It's been too long, I've missed two now, sorry.

Here are two to make up for it. The first is for a sleeveless cabled pullover, the second is for socks to match. I must say I have never knitted socks, I just don't see the point, but I know they are very popular makes for lots of people.



The patterns are from Stitchcraft magazine, July 1941.
I hope you enjoy them.

Monday, 22 September 2014

Knitty adventures at Monkley Ghyll

Susan and Gavin very kindly invited us up to the farm they moved into in March, (in fact the same weekend we moved into our new house). It's in an idyllic spot in Lancashire, about 20 minutes from the coast and Morecambe Bay. You will have read of their journey if you read her blog Just Call Me Ruby. We had the most wonderful time, as did the children. It was so good to squeeze one more trip in before school started.
 
 
These lovely creatures greeted us. I can't remember their breeds, I think the brown one is a Zwartbles? They were super soft, and greasy. We also met the chickens.


Miss B rolled her sleeves up ready to set to work.




We had a lovely day out in Morecambe Bay.
We had morning coffee at the Midland Hotel built in 1933.  

That morning I chose to wear The Frilly Jumper which I had finished years ago, but never photographed. Luckily it was from 1934.


I made it using some vintage cotton I found on Ebay years ago, by Bucilla, a 3 ply in pale beige and off white. I don't know when it dates from, I'd like to think the 30s, but more likely the 50s. It's one of the loveliest yarns I've ever worked with. It has a high twist, but is light, even though it is mercerised.


This is the ceiling of the hotel with the spiral staircase leading up to it.


The foyer and lounge area with the original rug.


We went to Brucciani's for lunch, another 30s gem, listed now and almost untouched ever since.



You can just see the mirror with ornate lamp above it.

Now I couldn't visit Susan without bringing some knitwear, in the off chance that she might photograph me in it. I have so many completed jumpers from both volumes now that I haven't had photographed. We managed one, but there are still lots to go.

                                                 Image courtesy of Susan Crawford

The Rose Jumper at last. Knit in the same yarn, in the smallest size. I'm very happy with the result. It seemed a little short at first, but has already dropped after just a few wears. That would be the silk.

                                                        Image Susan Crawford

Photographed outside Susan's front door, on a little stone wall filled with fragrant lavender. Everything was still in bloom.

                                                Image courtesy of Susan Crawford

I also took a few shots of Susan with my camera, a Canon 500D, with a 50mm lens. (In fact all the shots apart from the ones by Michael Demetriou and the ones in and of the hotel and cafe, which were taken with my phone, or Gavin or Susan's phone), are taken with this lens.







Susan also took a few shots of a couple of her designs, Nancy, which is available now, and Asthall, which will be released soon. They will be part of a collection called Knits for a Cold Climate.

As I may have mentioned, lots of the jumpers are being re-knitted in Fenella and Excellana, so I also got to model one of the re-knits - Could Anything Be Prettier, which I completely fell in love with. No photos of that yet though. The fit is almost exactly like the original version in the book, light and airy in Fenella, in the dove grey shade Columbine. Of course after wearing that I had to buy some Columbine along with Marriner to re-knit one of my designs, Bebe Daniels. It was originally knitted in Matchmaker 4 ply which is no longer available.
                                                                               
                                                         Images Michael Demetriou

I think it is going to look lovely in those two shades. Got to finish a few things before that though.                                                                       
                                                                         


Got my husband to take one of my boy and me on the old rusty gate opposite the front door. I was wearing my Blackberry Cardigan. It was so peaceful there, all we heard were the swallows above us, and the sheep bleeting in the field. The pigs got very excited if we went near them though, expecting food.



Filling up their water trough was tremendous fun.


Pottering.


Our last day, waving goodbye to the farm. He was so sad to leave.


So was I. Thank you Gavin and Susan.


                        
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